Places to visit in Хайфа

Haifa - underground and renovation


Description:

A mixture of former English colonial grandeur, long desolation and modern revival. Jaffa Street, the old port area and the current update in a good mix of stories and adventures that can only happen in a port city, where Germans, British, illegal immigrants and underground fighters left their mark. It will not do without the mythological Israeli car Susit, daring attacks by underground fighters, tragic flooding of ships, pubs, bars and restaurants, from traditional Mediterranean cuisine to a classic English pub or French restaurant. Let's go for a walk. Translated with Google Translate

Author & Co-authors
Evgeny Praisman (author)
Здравствуйте! Добро пожаловать в мои экскурсии! Я как-то понял, что погулять с каждым я не успею, гулять в группах мало кому сейчас хочется, а гулять «вслепую» быстро становится скучно. Так и появилась идея записывать маршруты и создавать полноценные путеводители, которые я здесь собираю. Если вы попали сюда, значит вам нужен ключик, чтобы открыть маршрут – пожалуйста! Напишите мне сообщение на телефон +972 537907561 или на epraisman@gmail.com и я с радостью вам помогу! Иначе, зачем я всё это делаю?
Distance
3.81 km
Duration
1h 58 m
Likes
20
Places with media
29
1
Corner building at the intersection of Amagenim and Ben Gurion, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

Spinney's, an English gourmet store, was once located in a beautiful semicircular building on the corner. Albert Edward Conquest, the head of the Haifa Criminal Investigation Department, came out of its door on the morning of April 26, 1947. He was followed by two: Yakov Penso and Avner Groshov. They knew that before Albert did his shopping in the store, he showed up at work at the headquarters on Kings way (modern Independence Avenue - Derech HaAtsmaut), then asked the driver to take him to the store and was going to go back to the office to dive. to work. There were three high-profile cases on his desk. Three weeks ago, oil storage facilities in the port were blown up, just five days ago a train with six hundred British soldiers and officers was derailed near Rehovot, five military and three civilians were killed, including a five-year-old child, and yesterday an explosion thundered in Tel Aviv at the army headquarters in Saron. that killed four Englishmen. Before Conquest had time to approach the car, a car jumped out from around the corner and a whole clip was fired into it from the lowered glass from the Thompson machine gun. At 13:30 he died in the hospital. A car with criminals swept up the Carmel Street (Ben Gurion Avenue). They went after him, the car was fired at and crashed into a telegraph pole, but the criminals managed to escape. Soon, the Jewish underground organization Fighters for the Freedom of Israel (Lohamei Herut Israel - Lehi) took responsibility for the "execution" of the British officer, as well as for the three cases in the investigation of which he took part. His funeral was attended by prominent figures of Jewish organizations and institutions, believing that the attempt on the life of Albert Edward was a gross violation of the established cooperation between the British police and official Jewish organizations and self-defense units (Agana). Conquest handed them information about the Arab formations, and they guaranteed him immunity from Lehi and Etzel. Another year will pass, and the last English soldier will forever leave the Mandatory Palestine from the Haifa pier, but for now, there will be an irreconcilable struggle for who will take power in their hands with their departure. Translated with Google Translate

2
Haifa City Museum
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

On October 25, 1898, almost half a century before the murder of the head of the Haifa Criminal Investigation Department, people crowded at this place near the balcony of the communal house. German colonists in Haifa had the honor to meet the august persons of Kaiser of Germany Wilhelm II with his wife Augusta Victoria. For this purpose, a quay was built half a kilometer from here, to which a boat was to moor, which brought the rulers from their imperial yacht, Hohenzollern, which left Beirut. The pier was built by Gottlieb Schumacher, the son of Jacob Schumacher, the Honorary Consul of the United States in Haifa. From his father Gottlieb inherited the position and the house opposite, across the street. In this house, Schumacher received two English officers Condor and Kitchenner, who were sent to Palestine for the purpose of research and mapping. Could Schumacher, a lover of archeology and biblical studies, then think that these cards would give the British an unprecedented advantage over the Germans and Turks, would allow them to easily wage victorious battles in Palestine during the First World War, win an irreproachable victory and exile him, Schumacher, to Egypt, as unreliable. He will ardently defend his right to return to Haifa to his home, to his own world-renowned excavations in Megiddo, and he will receive the right to do so. But when he returned, he would die a year later in 1924. His house would be confiscated by the British during World War II. It stands to this day abandoned with gaping black windows at the back of three arches at the entrance. And above the entrance, as usual, the Templars - the German colonists of Haifa, have a psalm carved. It reads: "Try on us (show us) the light of Thy face, Lord!" Translated with Google Translate

3
Adalah Legal Center, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

We go out to Jaffa street. It is named after the ancient road that connected Haifa and Jaffa. Active development along this road began in the second half of the nineteenth century, and gradually the street acquired its modern look. Building at number 94 houses the Adalah organization - Justice in Arabic. It was registered in 1996 as a public organization. Its goal is to fight for the rights of Arab citizens of Israel for equality in Israel and fight for the rights of non-Israeli Palestinians to freedom from Israel. In fact, this organization pursues political goals and seeks the legal deligitimation of the State of Israel. However, the very fact of its existence and its protection by Israeli legislation refutes the very essence of its existence, since it is difficult to fight for something that already exists. Translated with Google Translate

4
Society for the Conservation of Nature and the Conservation of Historic Monuments, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

This building houses the northern branch of the Society for the Conservation of Nature. It would seem, what is the underground here? It is one of the oldest public organizations in Israel and in the world. She was born out of a public outcry against the 1953 project to drain the Hula Valley. Nobody attached importance to these protests, the valley was drained, which led to an environmental disaster. Subsequently, the valley was restored, and the society gained recognition. In 1986, on the basis of the Society for the Protection of Nature, a council for the preservation and restoration of historical sites was established. Ironically, the antiquities law in the country applied only to objects that were 1700 years old or more, and historical buildings from the time of the creation of the state were dreamed of one after another. By the way, the well-known Israel Trail (Shvil Israel) is also a project of the Nature Conservation Society. Translated with Google Translate

5
St. Charles Guest House
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

The building of the modern hospice for pilgrims named after St. Charles is run by the nuns of the Rosary convention, founded by Christian Arabs in Jerusalem in 1880. This building was originally part of a large agricultural school complex created by Georg David Gardeg and his colleague Christoph Hoffmann, who were equipped by Templars from Württemberg to explore the Holy Land. They founded a school along the Jaffa Road. Subsequently, the main street of the colony, the modern Ben Gurion Avenue, was laid, and a garden remained from the school, which can be visited by going around the central building through the neighboring courtyard. Take a walk through this garden, in the center of it you will find a small statue of the Holy Virgin Mary in an artificial grotto made of special stones. It is customary to call them watermelons of Elijah the Prophet. Their geological structure is surprisingly simple and interesting. Under certain conditions, quartz grains that fall into the cuttings on a limestone rock begin to grow as a crystal, enveloped by a limestone rock. Over time, such a structure separates into a limestone ball, the interior of which has a crystalline structure. They say that long ago Ilya the Prophet asked the owner of the melon to treat him with a watermelon, but he turned out to be greedy and said: where did you find watermelons here? These are all stones. Well, stones - so stones, Ilya the Prophet answered, and the whole melon turned into stones. Hence the name Stones of Elijah the Prophet. Translated with Google Translate

6
Salute Bistro Bar, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

The revitalizing Jaffa street is fraught with many lovely places. This does not happen because someone wanted it or commanded it. It's just that the human spirit of entrepreneurship, initiative, renewal, meeting the support of the authorities, gives rise to good style, pleasing to the spirit and eye, evokes a smile and joy, and on the ruins of decades, in the midst of desolation and devastation, the seeds of revival and novelty sprout. Translated with Google Translate

7
Jaffa street, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

Many houses on Jaffa Street are just the backyards of the facade of the English architecture parallel to Atzmaut Street. The British, who began to develop Haifa in the late twenties and especially in the thirties of the twentieth century, poured a wide ledge into the sea, creating a deep-water port. Part of this ledge was taken under the wide Kings Way Avenue - the road of kings. (The current Independence Avenue). Through Jaffa, goods were transported to prestigious stores on King's Way. Today it is a semi-slum of the poor neighborhoods of Jaffa Street. Here you can find graffiti and it is not difficult to see in these colored figures warriors of different times and peoples, ranging from the soldiers of the Egyptian pharaohs to the fighters of Star Wars. Translated with Google Translate

8
Susita car, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

Incredible things lurk in the gateways of Jaffa Street. This machine is called Sushita and was produced in Israel, in Haifa and later in the Haifa suburb of Tirat Carmel. In 1953, a Jewish businessman from Haifa, originally from Slovenia, Ladislav Schneller received a concession for the production of a small one-seater car from the British company Reliant. Later, the famous Haifa financier and entrepreneur Yitzhak Shovinsky joined him and together they created the Otokars company, which began to produce cars with a fiberglass body. At first, these were sheets of fiberglass, which were connected using planks. The bottom was wooden, the chassis came from England. It was an Israeli Zaporozhets of pure water. By the way, the model in front of us was produced in the largest circulation of several thousand units and received the popular nickname Cubia - a cube, thanks to its square shapes. After the bankruptcy of the company in the early seventies, Susita became a popular legend, although cars have been on the road since the early nineties. Translated with Google Translate

9
Greco Catholic Cemetery, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

To meet a cemetery in the city is a rare event, unless we are talking about an ancient cemetery, created in those days when there was no trace of the city here. Indeed, this is the oldest surviving cemetery along the Jaffa Road. It belongs to a small community of Herko Catholics. An original Christian community, which celebrates the cult according to the traditions of the Byzantine rite, but belongs to the Catholic diocese. Translated with Google Translate

10
Falafel Michel, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

We cannot imagine the Haifa "underground" without its iconic dish - falafel. These mouth-watering "balls" are based on chickpeas (lamb peas). Only unlike hummus, this is not mashed potatoes, but a relatively coarse grind with the addition of other legumes and a lot of spices. This mass is deep-fried and, according to the Copts, the first Christians of ancient Egypt, this dish was used as a substitute for meat during Lent. The name "falafel" is Arabic and comes from the word filfel (pilpel in Hebrew) - pepper - due to the tradition of abundantly pepper the spicy bean mass before roasting. The most important thing about falafel is its freshness. The balls should be freshly fried and crunchy with a thin brownish crust. Any "stagnation" of falafel in anticipation of its "eater" leads to a loss of taste and even to the emergence of a bitter aftertaste. Falafel with tahini - sesame sauce - the most delicious combination. However, it becomes even more delicious when you add a little date syrup and onions to the tahini. Serving falafel is best served with herbs - lettuce, fresh tomatoes, eggplants fried over the fire - will always add flavor, and a couple of drops of lemon juice. All this will add softness and tenderness to this truly national dish of the Middle East. Translated with Google Translate

11
Strudel, Jaffa, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

Falafel Michel is a pleasant eatery and nearby is the famous Strudel, one of the legendary restaurants in the lower town. Its atmosphere is the business center of Haifa in the 60s and 70s. Its menu is a specialty of Northern (Lebanese) Arabic cuisine combined with good European traditions from the time of the British Empire. Locals say there is a special dish to be tasted here: Harek Osbao. This winter dish based on lentils and pomegranates is served with fried dough, onions and lots of coriander and garlic. They say that the dish got its name, meaning "burning in the fingers", because people cannot resist not starting to eat with their hands - they put their fingers in a pot, and immediately feel a burning sensation in their fingertips. Translated with Google Translate

12
Crossroads of Bankova Street and Jaffa, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

This intersection of Bankovskaya Street and Jaffa Street perfectly symbolizes the history of Haifa in the early twentieth century. Jaffa Street was the main highway connecting Haifa with the center of the country - Jaffa. When the British built parallel to it, King George the Fifth Avenue (modern Atzmaut Street), banks, representative offices of shipping companies, embassies and everything related to trade and maritime transportation began to appear here. Translated with Google Translate

13
Cafe Baram and Port Inn, Haifa
Cafe Baram and Port Inn, Haifa

These two establishments are known to all Jaffa residents. The Port Inn is the simplest, most comfortable and well-groomed hotel in the lower town, and the Baram cafe is its good neighbor. Young people gather here, the intoxication of the hookah spreads all along Jaffa, and the old people sigh with a drawn-out pensiveness: when we were young ... Translated with Google Translate

14
Corner of Jaffa and Patria Street, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

We are located at the corner of Jaffa Street and Patria Street. Patria Street is named after a French passenger ship that sailed from Marseille to Haifa until 1940. With the fall of France to Nazi Germany, the ship was confiscated by the British in the port of Haifa. It was on this ship that the British authorities placed about one and a half thousand illegal Jewish immigrants who fled from the Nazi-captured Czech Republic, Austria, Denmark and the Benelux countries. These refugees arrived in Haifa on three Greek ships chartered by the Jewish leadership to rescue Jews, but the British leadership of Palestine, fearing Arab unrest, significantly restricted the entry of Jews into Eretz Israel and was going to ferry refugees to the Mauritius Islands in the southwestern Indian Ocean. After negotiations, requests and pleas were unsuccessful, the leaders of the Jewish leadership of Palestine decided to disable the ship. Meir Mordor (later the first director of Israel's military industry), disguised as a technician, carried a kilogram of explosives on board the ship. Despite the low-power charge, the explosion tore the hull plating and the ship began to roll quickly on its side. Within fifteen minutes, Patria sank to the bottom of the Haifa Bay. British officers did their best to save the drowning, but the losses were enormous. For several months, the divers raised the bodies of the drowned. To date, the exact number of victims has not been established. According to various estimates, it ranged from 250 to 300 people. Translated with Google Translate

15
Jaffa street, Haifa
Jaffa street, Haifa

This part of the city was completely built by the British. It is very reminiscent of the seaside quarters of any European city. Translated with Google Translate

16
Sea shipping, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

We are located in a historic courtyard where various shipping companies have been concentrated. Here orders were made, contracts were signed and various ships were chartered. The Israeli shipping company Tsim began its history with the chartering of numerous ships. Ironically, the Tsim is considered the largest fleet in the world in terms of the number of floating funds recorded. Everything is connected with the fact that during the years of illegal immigration they bought everything that was kept on the water in order to deliver refugees to Eretz Israel and then no one bothered to write off the no longer existing ships. Translated with Google Translate

17
Israel Scandia Shipping Company, Haifa
Israel Scandia Shipping Company, Haifa

Some of the first countries to provide great support to Israel were the countries of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The company was registered in 1949, the year after the creation of the State of Israel, and specialized in the sea transportation of raw materials and products from Scandinavia to Israel. Today the company carries out any transportation around the world. Translated with Google Translate

18
Pub and Bars, Jaffa Street, Haifa
Pub and Bars, Jaffa Street, Haifa

In the evenings, numerous pubs and bars open in this courtyard, musicians, stand-up artists perform, beer flows like a river and joint screenings of football matches are arranged on large screens. Translated with Google Translate

19
Syncopa Bar, Hayat Street, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

The number of good drinking establishments in this part of the city can be envied by seasoned connoisseurs. And we will only tell you why Hayat Street is so called. The word itself denotes tailor in Hebrew and Arabic. It is one of the wealthiest and most respected Arab Christian families in the city. The family's history begins in Lebanon, when they fled from pogroms in the Druze village of Hatzabiya in the middle of the 19th century. Aziz Hayat founded a company in Manhattan to sell antiquities from the Middle East. He carried out archaeological excavations in Lebanon near Haifa and Nazareth and traded mainly in Roman glass. Over time, the Hayat family became the most powerful family with real estate. They owned the famous Hayat Beach - today Carmel Beach, entire city blocks and their own estate at the bottom of the Siyah stream. To this day, the descendants of the family own real estate in Haifa, and the grandson of Aziz Salim is one of the hundred richest people in Israel. Translated with Google Translate

20
Former British Criminal Investigation Building, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

We went out to Atzmaut Street to the former building of the British Criminal Investigation Department. Remember the beginning of the tour? After the murder of the head of the Haifa Criminal Investigation Department, the British increased their security, surrounded the building with rows of barbed wire and conducted a series of searches and arrests. The Etzel underground leaders also stepped up their activities. In the summer of 1947, the British executed two underground leaders by hanging in a prison in Acre. In response, Etzel's fighters kidnapped and hanged two British officers in a grove in Netanya. In the summer of the same year, the British arrested and sent to the shores of Europe the ship Exodus with four and a half thousand Jewish refugees who had escaped from Nazi camps. At the same time, the ship with Jewish refugees Af Al Pi Khen was arrested and everyone who was interned on board in concentration camps in Cyprus. Etzel's fighters were preparing a major action and chose the Haifa Criminal Investigation Building as their target, as a symbol of the arbitrariness and cynicism of British rule, located opposite Palmer Street - the main entrance to the port - the gate of freedom and justice for hundreds of thousands of Holocaust survivors. In order to overcome the guards, a cunning bomb was developed. The oil barrel was filled with a ton of explosives. Tractor wheels with a gear mechanism were installed on both ends of the barrel, which allowed the wheels to turn only in one direction. The barrel was placed on a "slide" in the back of a truck with a release cable in the driver's cab. By five thirty in the morning on September 26, 1947, under the mode of transport carrying a washing machine with accompanying papers to the port, the truck arrived from Bnei Brak to the building of the Haifa Criminal Investigation Department. The security guard had just managed to tell the truck driver: "Your barrel has fallen," when a deafening explosion thundered. This was the largest act of retaliation against the British command in Haifa, which claimed the lives of eleven people. A month later, a UN resolution decreed the withdrawal of British troops from Palestine and the creation of two states. From that moment, Etzel, Lehi and Agana launched attacks on weapons depots and other military facilities in order to prepare for the war of independence. More actions aimed at fighting the British authorities were not undertaken. Translated with Google Translate

21
Palmer Street, Haifa
Palmer Street, Haifa

The street is named after the British engineer Sir Frederick Palmer, who convinced the British authorities that the Haifa coast was an ideal place to build a deep-sea military and commercial port. It was through this street that the main entrance to the port was carried out. Translated with Google Translate

22
HaOgen pub Anchor, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

On the main street leading to the port, the British opened a bar back in 1942. It was not the first or the last bar in the port city, but today the Ogen (Anchor) bar is the oldest operating bar in the country. He took over this title from the Jerusalem bar Pink, which opened ten years earlier in 1932, but closed in 2005. The new life was given to the bar by Yosef Pinkus, whom everyone calls Yoska. His father Zelig also had a small bar in pre-war Poland. Yosef survived the Holocaust and was a cook on ships that brought the first immigrants into the country, who were not allowed by the British. Later, Yosef joined the Tsim merchant fleet and worked as a cook for many years. In 1962, after the admonitions of his wife, Yoska went ashore and bought the Anchor bar. The glory was brought to the bar by the epic of the sixth American fleet, which saw Haifa as its anchorage on the Mediterranean Sea, and the sailors saw the Ogen bar as its anchorage. They say that a thousand sandwiches were prepared here a day. Yoska was helped by his son Gil, who cooks an incomparable roast beef. There is also a real jamon, homemade pickles, sausage and cheese cuts, herring and the highlight of the program - Guinness beer. Don't even ask the other. Guinness period. Translated with Google Translate

23
Shaar Palmer, Haifa
Shaar Palmer, Haifa

Palmer's Gate. This street starts from the Haifa-Boston Cooperation Square with the sculpture "City Fish" by Haifa sculptor Zviki Kantor; crosses the port street and ends at Independence Avenue. And we will walk through the port of Namal. Translated with Google Translate

24
Morel tapas and wine, Haifa
Morel tapas and wine, Haifa

Another nice place with tapas and music. Most of all here are young people, because all around the hostel. Translated with Google Translate

25
Restaurant aNamal 24, Haifa
Restaurant aNamal 24, Haifa

This is one of the most famous and respected restaurants in the city. Despite the fact that the entrance to it resembles a bunny hole, you will find yourself in an authentic French restaurant with an exquisite menu and good manners. Translated with Google Translate

26
Passenger Port, Haifa
Passenger Port, Haifa

Passenger ships depart from Haifa to Cyprus. This is also where Mediterranean cruise ships come. The bridge is today the main pedestrian entrance to the port. Translated with Google Translate

27
Central Railway Station, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

The station opened in 1937 and was called "Haifa Center". It was built on an area that was drained as part of the construction of the Haifa Port. This is evidenced by historical photos on the facade of the building. In those years, one could get from Haifa by train to Beirut and Damascus. It is the only British-built passenger station in Palestine. In 2007 it was renamed “Haifa Merkaz Hashmona”, in memory of the eight depot employees who died in the rocket attack on Haifa in 2006 during the second Lebanese war. The building is a historical heritage site. Translated with Google Translate

28
Dagon Grain Museum, Haifa
Uploaded by Evgeny Praisman

Dagon in ancient Canaan was called the god of grain. The right to sell grain was given to the honored and honorary resident of the city, doctor, Dutch Jew Reuven Hecht - a great lover of archeology, which served as the name of the elevator and the placement in it of an archaeological museum telling about the history of agriculture. The elevator building is capable of holding 85 tons of grain in its storage facilities. Its height is 65 meters and it contains 200 storage containers. Translated with Google Translate

29
Corner of Selesian Street and Nezavismotsi Avenue, Haifa
Corner of Selesian Street and Nezavismotsi Avenue, Haifa

We finish the walk through the lower city and we have one of its symbols in front of us - an old Volkswagen van, on which you can fasten a surfboard, equip some simple belongings on the way and go hippie while life is young and while worries are not important. This is Haifa in the underground. Translated with Google Translate

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