Potes

Potes welcomes visitors with its stunning mountain backdrop and medieval charm. Conveniently, there is a large public parking area—unexpectedly free of charge, at least as of August 2018. From here, the first landmark in sight is the Church of St. Vincent, dedicated to one of Spain and Portugal’s most revered saints. St. Vincent, a martyr and a priest from the monastery in Zaragoza, is closely tied to Iberian religious history. Interestingly, Zaragoza itself owes its name to its Roman heritage—Caesar Augustus—just as Potes traces its name back to its Latin root, “Bridges” (Pontes), a reflection of its strategic position at the confluence of the Deva and Quiviesa rivers.

Potes’ history dates back to Roman times, when Pompey established it as a critical waypoint. Over centuries, as the rivers continued their course, new chapters of history were written. Not far from Potes, the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana rose during the Visigothic Kingdom’s early days, joining Rome, Jerusalem, and Santiago de Compostela as one of the few places offering full indulgences—complete absolution of sins.

In the 15th century, under the rule of Count Niño, the Church of St. Vincent was built. Whether it was named in honor of Portugal’s patron saint due to Count Niño’s love for Beatrice of Portugal or for another reason, the church became one of Potes’ most important landmarks. Built over four centuries, it stands as a testament to the town’s enduring faith, rich history, and deep-rooted connections to the greater Iberian world.

One of the most renowned figures born in Potes is Jesús de Monasterio, a virtuoso violinist and composer who played a crucial role in shaping Spain’s musical tradition. He founded the Spanish Violin School, elevating violin performance to new heights and inspiring generations of musicians. Beyond his contributions as a performer and educator, Monasterio introduced Spanish audiences to the works of German composers, from Bach to Wagner, bridging the gap between Spain and the great European musical traditions. His legacy endures, making him one of the town’s most distinguished and influential sons.

The New Church of St. Vincent stands as a striking architectural feature of Potes, built in the 19th century, during the lifetime of Jesús de Monasterio. Its design is somewhat unusual, blending traditional and unique elements. The church features three naves with side chapels, with the central nave rising above the others, creating a sense of grandeur. The main facade, crowned with a pediment, is flanked by two square-section bell towers, giving the structure a balanced and imposing appearance. This church remains one of Potes’ most important religious landmarks, reflecting the town’s enduring faith and historical evolution.

This bas-relief honors Enrique Ereros, a renowned Spanish artist, director, and climber, whose life and work were deeply intertwined with Spain’s 20th-century history. A gifted draftsman, he first made a name for himself as a cartoonist and journalist, using his sharp artistic vision to capture the spirit of his time. Ereros had a deep love for the Picos de Europa, and his sketches of the mountain landscapes brought him both recognition and financial success.

During the war years, he escaped to France through San Sebastián, only returning to Spain in the 1950s. A close friend of Pablo Picasso, he played a significant role in the country’s artistic and cultural scene. In the 1960s, he founded a satirical magazine that became widely read across Spain, solidifying his influence as both an artist and a commentator on Spanish society.

The window casings of northern Spain often bear intricate symbols, a tradition deeply rooted in the history of Cantabria, Asturias, and much of the northern region. Many of these markings can be traced back to the Visigothic era, while some originate even earlier, in the Celtic period.

Throughout northern Spain, Celtic heritage is a point of pride, shaping local culture, symbolism, and music. From the haunting sounds of bagpipes in La Coruña to the Celtic motifs in souvenir shops, this identity sets the region apart. It highlights a distinct character—one that contrasts sharply with the traditions of central and southern Spain, giving the north its unique and unmistakable cultural flavor.

Perched on a hill in the old County of Buelna, the Tower-Castle of Admiral Perot Niño, Count of Buelna and Lord of Cigales, stands as a testament to medieval power and strategy. Built in the late 14th century by his brother Alfonso Niño, the fortress was designed in the Gothic style but retained the common defensive structure of the time—a 14-meter-high rectangular cube.

The ground floor housed a shop and stables, while the middle floor accommodated the county’s administrators. The third floor served as a watchtower, providing surveillance over the surrounding lands. The small windows on the second level were strategically placed for defense, allowing defenders to protect the stronghold.

Today, the tower hosts a permanent exhibition titled “Perot Niño: The Life and Journeys of a Medieval Knight”, offering visitors a glimpse into the adventurous and storied past of one of Spain’s legendary figures.

Perot Niño earned his fame as a bold and ruthless warrior, successfully raiding and plundering English villages. After a triumphant campaign alongside French Baron Savoisy, his forces returned to Brest, where Niño received orders to return to Castile. Sailing to Santander and traveling through Valladolid, he arrived in Madrid, where King Enrique III promised him the prestigious title of Admiral of the Castilian Fleet.

However, fate had other plans. The king died, and Niño fell in love with Beatrice of Portugal—a romance that would change the course of his life. His ambitions and future were thwarted by the regent of young King Juan II, who disapproved of both Niño and his beloved Beatrice. His great career and fame remained just beyond reach.

But Niño was a man of pride. Feeling betrayed, he left court and returned home, refusing to serve those who had dismissed him. Yet time and circumstances forced the regent and courtiers to beg him to return, and only when they granted him permission to marry Beatrice did he finally reclaim his place in Castilian history.

After the turbulent and rebellious era of Perot Niño, a new chapter in Potes’ history began with Diego Hurtado de Mendoza—a man of education, loyalty, and prestige. In 1475, the Catholic Monarchs granted him the title of the first Duke of Infantado, marking the start of Potes’ golden age. Under the Mendoza family’s rule, the town flourished—stone embankments lined the riverbanks, and high bridges were constructed, shaping the medieval atmosphere that still defines Potes today.

The Mendoza family, originating from the village of Mendoza, became one of the most powerful and influential dynasties in Spain. Their legacy began with Íñigo López, ruler of Biscay in the 11th century. His descendant, also Íñigo López, rose to prominence under King Juan II of Castile (who was only two years old when Niño was raiding English villages). The king granted him the prestigious titles of Marquis of Santillana and Count del Real de Manzanares. Besides his political influence, Íñigo López became one of the greatest Castilian poets of his time.

His son, Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, received the title of Duke del Infantado in Potes in 1475. That same year, he began constructing the magnificent Palacio del Infantado in Guadalajara, near Madrid—a symbol of Mendoza’s rising power. Meanwhile, his brother, Cardinal Mendoza, assumed leadership of the Spanish Church in 1482.

Under the Mendoza family’s guidance, Isabella and Ferdinand completed the Reconquista with the capture of Granada, financed Columbus’ voyage to the New World, and orchestrated the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492. By 1520, their influence reached its peak when Carlos I (Emperor Charles V) recognized the Dukes of Infantado among the first 25 grandees of unified Spain, cementing their status in the nation’s elite.

This ancient bridge is one of the oldest in Potes, serving as a vital connection between the town and its surrounding valleys. It is part of the historic mountain route between Valmayor and Tolibes, a path that has been traveled for centuries. More than just a local crossing, it also forms part of the legendary Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage route that has drawn travelers from all over Europe for generations.

Pilgrims were not only guided by the scallop shell, the symbol of the Camino, but also by the dense forests of cork oak growing on the Valmayor and Tolibes mountains. For decades, the bark of these trees was harvested for bottle corks, making this region famous for its natural resources.

The path also leads through the now-abandoned village of Portia, a silent witness to history. Observant travelers will notice that along with the Way of St. James, another sacred route is marked—leading to one of Spain’s most important national shrines, the Cave of Covadonga in Asturias. This revered site marks the symbolic beginning of the Reconquista, the Christian effort to reclaim Spain, which finally culminated eight centuries later.

This ancient bridge is one of the oldest in Potes, serving as a vital connection between the town and its surrounding valleys. It is part of the historic mountain route between Valmayor and Tolibes, a path that has been traveled for centuries. More than just a local crossing, it also forms part of the legendary Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage route that has drawn travelers from all over Europe for generations.

Pilgrims were not only guided by the scallop shell, the symbol of the Camino, but also by the dense forests of cork oak growing on the Valmayor and Tolibes mountains. For decades, the bark of these trees was harvested for bottle corks, making this region famous for its natural resources.

The path also leads through the now-abandoned village of Portia, a silent witness to history. Observant travelers will notice that along with the Way of St. James, another sacred route is marked—leading to one of Spain’s most important national shrines, the Cave of Covadonga in Asturias. This revered site marks the symbolic beginning of the Reconquista, the Christian effort to reclaim Spain, which finally culminated eight centuries later.

The bridge itself is small and single-arched, standing gracefully over the Quiviesa River, a humble yet enduring reminder of the countless travelers and pilgrims who have crossed it throughout history.

Another major bridge in Potes is the Main Bridge, which stands beneath the towering castle keep, creating a striking medieval silhouette. Its decorative elements resemble the jagged battlements of the fortress, blending seamlessly with the town’s historic architecture.

It was here that we began to notice something intriguing—where the locals actually eat. The answer, it seems, was hidden in the name of a nearby bus stop, offering a subtle clue to the town’s true culinary spots, away from the tourist paths.

Here, two mighty streams converge—the Deva River, descending from the highest peaks of the Picos de Europa, and the Quiviesa River, which flows from the southern gorge. Their meeting point has shaped the landscape of Potes, providing both natural beauty and a strategic advantage that influenced the town’s development for centuries. The rivers continue their course together, carrying with them the history and spirit of the rugged northern lands.

Crossing the bridge, we take the shortest route to the parking lot, passing through the less picturesque areas of modern Potes. Yet, even here, history does not let go—on the way, we encounter another scenic bridge over the Deva River, a final reminder of the town’s deep-rooted connection to its waterways.

Potes is a town woven with bridges, each carrying the footprints of medieval counts, wandering pilgrims, and centuries of travelers. Their stones whisper tales of conquests, faith, and the timeless rhythm of life in this historic mountain crossroads.