Vavatsinia and Phicardou of May 8, 2024

The main church of the village is dedicated to Saint George the Victorious. It is relatively modern, having been constructed only in 1912. The church, situated in the village center, was funded by George Celakidis, a native who emigrated to Egypt. This story highlights the extensive Cypriot diaspora, spread across 115 countries, largely due to the 20th-century events such as British rule, the struggle for independence, and the conflict between Greeks and Turks. Interestingly, Cypriot emigration began to grow in the 19th century, especially after 1878 when the British purchased Cyprus from the Turks and established it as a strategic outpost on the route to Egypt, thereby strengthening the ties between Cyprus and Egypt and leading to significant demographic changes.

In the beautifully restored stone house of Vavatsinia lies Takis Tavern, established in 2006 during a period of village revitalization initiated by the Cypriot government as part of an authentic village renaissance. Located in the heart of the village, this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere. The owner, Mr. Takis, along with his children, warmly welcomes all. Be prepared to indulge in the delicacies they prepare with care and passion, using the finest ingredients and most authentic flavors. Since its opening in 2006, this popular tavern has been a go-to spot for Cypriot traditional meze, the restaurant’s signature dish. Note that on Sundays and holidays, the meze varies.

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The first settlements in this area emerged on the banks of a small river over ten centuries ago during the period of Arab raids. To escape from enemies, islanders from coastal settlements always sought refuge deep in the mountains, where they engaged in agriculture and built new homes. The name of the village, "Vavatsinia," comes from the mulberry trees that were prevalent in this region; in Greek, "βαβατσινιά" means mulberry and mulberry tree.

Vavatsinia is supported not only by the government of Cyprus but also by an association of Cypriot emigrants. For instance, the village hosts a distillery that was renovated in 2007. This distillery, a gift from Kyriakos Agafoklis, is used by the locals to produce zivania, an alcoholic beverage made by distilling grape mash left over from wine production, and local dry wines from Cypriot grape varieties Xynisteri and Mavro. Additionally, the village features an old distillation apparatus, which is a local attraction that we will discuss further.

A narrow path with stairs takes us to the outskirts of Vavatsinia, weaving through rose bushes, firewood stacks, and grapevines. It brings to mind an amusing incident when Vavatsinia made it into the Guinness Book of Records for growing the largest nectarine, which weighed half a kilogram and was nine centimeters long. Quite the feat for such a climate! However, the untouched natural beauty of the place seems slightly at odds with the pop culture of record books. It's something you truly come to appreciate only when you're here in Vavatsinia.

This chapel, originally constructed for the village, was meticulously restored in 1850. It is located on the eastern side of the community, adjacent to the rural cemetery. The church is notable for its "gynaeconiti" or gynaeceum, an area specifically designed for women, which is discreetly situated on the upper level at the rear of the edifice, and is under the protection of the Antiquities Department. Commemorative ceremonies are celebrated here on August 15th. Typically, in villages, churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary, such as this one, are positioned in highly revered locations. Interestingly, in Greece, the Virgin Mary is referred to as "Panagia," a name composed of "pan," meaning universal or encompassing, and "agia," signifying holy.

Before us stands a large, freestanding wood-fired oven. Such ovens were built in villages for cooking food, sometimes serving the entire village or nearby homes. In this oven, one can slowly cook lamb to perfection, experiencing one of the most delicious dishes of Cypriot cuisine: kleftiko. For those with a keen ear, the name of this dish may remind them of the word "kleptomania." Indeed, there's a connection: both derive from "klepto," meaning to steal. Historically, mountain dwellers would descend into the valleys to steal a lamb and then slowly cook it in a tightly sealed oven to ensure no smoke was visible. The result is meat that is tender, delicately flavored, and falls right off the bone. Although no one steals lambs nowadays, the traditional method of cooking in an oven continues.

The history of Vavatsinia, a Cypriot village, spans several notable periods. Starting in the 8th century, Arab raids targeted Cyprus, prompting the village's initial settlements as a refuge in the mountains. Throughout the Middle Ages, Cyprus fell under the rule of various European Crusader kingdoms, adding layers of cultural and architectural influence to Vavatsinia.

The island came under Ottoman rule in the late 16th century, a period that lasted until the British Empire took control in 1878. Under British rule, Cyprus underwent significant administrative and infrastructural changes, impacting villages like Vavatsinia, especially in terms of land ownership and cultivation practices.

Today, Vavatsinia retains a blend of its historical influences, showcased in its architecture, traditions, and local practices, standing as a testament to the rich, multifaceted history of Cyprus through the ages.

Nestled under the dense canopies of ancient pines, Vavatsinia never experiences severe heat; the fierce sun simply cannot penetrate such a barrier. The air here is so pure that one can see the landscape for miles around. Visiting Vavatsinia feels like stepping into a fairy tale. Set apart from the bustling coastal resorts, it sees fewer tourists, allowing locals to preserve their unique culture and crafts. The region is also known for its olive and citrus groves, and thanks to the local gardens and vineyards, Cypriots produce exquisite natural juices and wines. Additionally, the area is renowned for its distinctive cherry tomato plantations.

We've reached the very spot where the village keeps its traditional distillation apparatus for producing zivania. This little shed has two words inscribed on it, one in Greek and the other in Latin, both of which hold our interest. The term "apostaktiras" (or "apostakter") historically and ecclesiastically relates to an official in the Byzantine Empire responsible for overseeing and accounting for church property, including lands and gifts. This position involved managing the finances and properties of a monastery or church and ensuring the proper use and preservation of church holdings, integral to Byzantium's broader administrative system that maintained order and effective management of church resources.

An alembic is a device used for distilling liquids, with a long history. This distillation apparatus consists of two main parts: a boiler to heat the liquid and a cap or head, often shaped like a dome or sphere, that collects vapors. Once condensed, these vapors revert to liquid form, collected in a separate container. Traditionally made of copper, alembics are widely used in producing essential oils, perfumes, and alcoholic beverages like whiskey and brandy. The device was invented by Arabic alchemists, and the word "alembic" comes from the Arabic "al-inbiq," meaning "the cup," reflecting the shape of the condensate receiver.

Thus, these concepts fascinatingly converge around the ancient distillation apparatus, a source of pride for the residents of Vavatsinia who even lend it to neighboring villages.

Vavatsinia is a serene and charming highland village nestled in the Troodos Mountains, close to the more well-known village of Lefkara. It's a place where the hustle and bustle of tourist crowds are absent, creating a peaceful sanctuary. The village is surrounded by ancient pines, which provide a cool and pleasant shade, making it a delightful spot for leisurely walks even during the peak of summer's heat. This setting contributes to Vavatsinia’s reputation as one of the most environmentally pristine locations on Cyprus. The air is fragrant with the scent of healing herbs, adding to the village's tranquil and restorative atmosphere.

The viewpoint at Moutti tis Ploumous is situated at an elevation of 1057 meters, providing a stunning vista of the valley between Nicosia and Larnaca. Nicosia, or Lefkosia, derives its name from "Lefko," meaning white, likely referring to the white Venetian walls or the limestone of the area. Larnaca, known for its long history and ancient sites like Kition, gets its name from "Larnax," meaning sarcophagus, due to many found there. Historically, the valley between these cities has been a vital trade route, linking the interior with the coast, which continues to hold significant economic and cultural importance today.

We are situated in the serene, protected area of the Machairas forest, elevated at around 1000 meters above sea level. This region is adorned with extensive walking trails, several picturesque viewpoints, and an array of spectacular views. The forest's predominant Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia), along with the endemic golden oak (Quercus alnifolia) and diverse underbrush, shapes a rich and vibrant forest landscape. Along the trail, you will find multiple vantage points offering breathtaking views. To the south, the cityscape of Limassol stretches out below, while to the north, views of the occupied Morphou area unfold. Conveniently placed benches along the first section of the trail invite you to pause and soak in these panoramas. Further along, the second section offers expansive views over the lush expanse of Machaira’s forest, backed by the quaint villages dotting the Nicosia region.

On the way from Vavatsinia to Fikardou, you can stop to photograph the stunningly beautiful Machairas Monastery. According to legend, it was founded in the 12th century at the site of a cave where monks from Jerusalem hid an icon of the Virgin Mary. The path to the cave was blocked by dense wild shrubs, and they needed a large, sharp knife, similar to a machete, to cut through the bushes and reach the cave. This is where the monastery's name, Machairas, comes from, derived from the word "machairi," meaning knife.

It is believed that the icon of the Virgin Mary, hidden in the cave and later kept in the monastery, is the original icon of the Virgin Mary, painted by Saint Luke during the lifetime of the Holy Virgin Mary. Such an event could not go unnoticed by the rulers of Cyprus at the time, the Byzantine rulers in Constantinople. Emperor Komnenos granted the monks money and awarded them independent status. In 1172, the monastery came to occupy not only the lands around the cave but the entire mountain. Almost 30 years later, after the treacherous capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders, Cyprus came under the rule of the Frankish Lusignan dynasty. The monastery was deprived of its rights, and the nearby village was renamed Lazanias after the Lusignans. In the village, the new rulers brutally executed 13 monks.

Today, the monastery is home to 20-30 monks. It is a male monastery, and its holdings are connected with the production of wine and olive oil. Notably, the nearby village of Lazanias has only one resident who runs a tavern frequently visited by local monks. Another significant and impressive monument on the monastery grounds is the statue of Grigoris Afxentiou. This large bronze statue depicts the Cypriot independence fighter with wings, proudly gazing towards Nicosia, symbolizing the extraordinary fate of this patriot, who was considered a terrorist by the British. He died at the age of 29 while hiding in a cave near the monastery, betrayed by an informant. Surrounded by the British and ordered to surrender, Grigoris responded, "Come and take it," quoting King Leonidas at the Battle of Thermopylae. The British poured gasoline into the cave and burned Grigoris Afxentiou alive. Fearing the wrath of Cypriots, they buried his body in a prison in Nicosia.

Located in the Lefkosia (Nicosia) region, the village of Fikardou sits at an altitude of 900 meters in the Pitsilia area. This climate is ideal for growing grapes and olives, which the village has been known for since ancient times. Almost every house once had a wine press and a distillation apparatus for making zivania, a strong grape-based alcoholic beverage similar to grappa. In the 1920s, Fikardou had a population of 123, but by the mid-1960s, the village had nearly emptied.

Almost abandoned today, Fikardou was declared an Ancient Monument in 1978 and won the Europa Nostra award in 1987. The village has been carefully restored to preserve its houses with notable wooden features and 18th-century folk architecture. Two of these houses, the House of Katsinioros and the House of Achilleas Dimitris, belong to the Department of Antiquities; they have been converted into museums displaying rural artifacts and recreating the village life of past centuries.

From the square with its unforgettable British-style green telephone booth, a stone-paved street leads into the heart of the village. According to one version, the settlement was founded between the 5th and 9th centuries. It was a place of refuge for those persecuted by the state authorities. As a result, a unique community developed in the Fikardou area, living by its own laws. According to legend, the region was controlled by two dominant clans: the Kurrians from the area of Kourion and people from Tamassos.

Proponents of this version assert that the name "Fikardou" derives from the Greek expression "figa andreu," which means "the den of the brave."

More credible etymology and historical research indicate that the name Fikardou originates from the feudal lords of the area during the Lusignan period. The earliest reference to the family appears after the 1450s, with royal chancellor Thomas Ficardos present at the death of King James II in 1473. Many Cypriot villages bear names derived from Frankish or Venetian families, such as Gourri from the Urri family and Lazania from the Lusignan family.

During the Komnenos dynasty, Fikardou was administratively part of the Machairas Monastery. Monastic records indicate that the villagers were engaged in olive harvesting. In the Middle Ages, the Templars controlled much of the Pitsilia region from 1195 to 1310. Following the persecution of the Knights Templar, Fikardou came under the control of the Order of the Knights of St. John.

Walking through the streets of Fikardou gives the impression that the residents are still there and have just stepped away momentarily. This creates a very unusual and powerful sensation, as it feels like the village is still inhabited despite being largely unoccupied. The meticulously restored homes and preserved artifacts contribute to this atmosphere, making it seem as though life in the village has merely paused rather than ended. The careful attention to detail in the restoration process ensures that the spirit and presence of its former residents remain palpable, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the past.

One of the unique aspects of Fikardou village is that it was abandoned by its residents in the 1960s, which means no modern construction materials were used in its buildings. This has left the village essentially frozen in time, preserving its historic architecture. Many houses, or significant parts of them, remain unchanged since the 16th century. This untouched state offers a rare and authentic glimpse into Cyprus's rural past, making Fikardou a living museum of traditional Cypriot life.

The houses on the outskirts of Fikardou are particularly notable. Here, trails lead seamlessly into the mountains and forests, creating a harmonious blend between the village and nature. There is no clear boundary between the human dwellings and the surrounding landscape, giving the impression that the village naturally transitions into the wilderness. This integration highlights the village's unique charm and its deep connection with the natural environment, offering a picturesque and tranquil setting that feels timeless.

The House of Katsinioros in Fikardou is a significant historical site that dates back to the 16th century. It is a two-storey stone-built structure with a steep-pitched wooden roof, reflecting the traditional architectural style of the period. The upper floor served as the living area, while the ground floor was used for pressing grapes, storing wine, and other agricultural products, as well as housing tools. This arrangement highlights the agricultural heritage of the region.

Katsinioros, after whom the house is named, was the last owner before it became a museum. The house has been meticulously restored to showcase rural Cypriot life, with tools and utensils from that era on display. The restoration effort was recognized with the Europa Nostra award in 1987 for its excellence in preserving cultural heritage.

Historically, Fikardou and its notable families, such as the Katsinioros, played a crucial role in the region. The family is associated with the broader feudal history of Cyprus, especially during the Lusignan period. The village itself, administratively tied to the Machairas Monastery during the Komnenos dynasty, was involved in olive harvesting. Later, the area came under the control of the Knights of St. John following the decline of the Templars.

The House of Katsinioros, along with the House of Achilleas Dimitri, which has been converted into a weaver's workshop and guesthouse, forms part of the Fikardou Rural Museum. These sites collectively provide a comprehensive glimpse into the traditional rural life of Cyprus.

The House of Achilleas Dimitri is larger and wealthier than its neighboring homes. The upper floor is notable, featuring a spacious living area with a bed, table, and a spinning wheel for weaving. This room also contains intriguing items essential to daily life, such as a V-shaped wooden board for removing boots and a beautifully decorated gypsum shelf for displaying fine dishes.

Surrounding the upper room is an open, expansive veranda that extends over the first-floor roof, shaded by grapevines. This veranda was where the family spent most of their time. The ground floor includes a wine press, livestock pen, oven, and a distillation apparatus, reflecting the agricultural and domestic activities of the household.

This setup highlights the blend of functional and aesthetic elements in the house, offering a vivid glimpse into the prosperous rural life of past centuries in Cyprus.

In the village of Fikardou, plants thrive despite the absence of residents. Anise, with its towering growth, stands as tall as a person. Roses, essential in their symbiotic relationship with grapevines, serve as early warning signs for vineyard health. The most fascinating plant is the red valerian, or Centranthus ruber, which has several intriguing names. In Spanish, it’s called "milamores" or "a thousand loves," while in Catalonia, it's known as "hierba de San Jorge" or "St. George's herb." In English, it goes by names like spur valerian, kiss-me-quick, fox’s brush, devil’s beard, or Jupiter’s beard.

While red valerian is often seen as a decorative plant in some countries, in Cyprus, it grows wild, its natural habitat being the Mediterranean. Blooming from spring through sometimes October, it fills gardens with a pleasant aroma, requires minimal care, and is drought-resistant and pest-free. Its seeds disperse easily by wind, allowing it to spread quickly and sometimes become invasive.

Though some sources claim red valerian is not medicinal, this is likely a confusion with true valerian (Valeriana officinalis). Other sources, however, attribute medicinal properties to red valerian, including calming effects, spasm relief, sleep improvement, and help with nervous tics and epileptic seizures. Typically, the roots are harvested in autumn, dried, and brewed.

Here’s a recipe for a sleep-improving brew: Mix equal parts of red valerian roots, passionflower, orange blossoms, and lemon balm. Use two tablespoons per half-liter of water, boil for one minute, steep for ten minutes, and strain. This brew can be sipped throughout the day. If only red valerian is available, limit the intake to one glass in the evening.

For a calming effect, the entire plant can be dried, crushed, and placed in small pillows. These were traditionally used to soothe restless children at bedtime.

In challenging times, it’s worth noting that red valerian is edible and used in salads (fresh or boiled leaves) and soups (roots) in many countries.

Finally, red valerian is believed to have magical properties in Spanish folklore. A pouch of its crushed roots hung in the house was thought to protect against lightning strikes, and its leaves were used in love potions and to reconcile quarreling lovers, perhaps explaining its name "milamores".

In Fikardou, alongside museum houses, there are temporary living homes that come alive during festivals and events. These houses are furnished with tables and chairs, ready for feasts or tranquil gatherings depending on the occasion. The roof is adorned with the robust body of a grapevine, lazily and confidently stretching like a giant python. This vine provides shade and sustenance, embodying the whimsical yet essential nature of the grape seed. The setting creates a vibrant and inviting atmosphere, perfect for celebrations and community gatherings, blending the historical charm of the village with the lively spirit of its events.

One of the most intriguing and notable features in the homes of Fikardou is the special oven for preparing "kleftiko." This traditional Cypriot dish is made from lamb, slow-cooked whole in a sealed oven over coals, resulting in meat so tender it falls off the bone. The origin of this cooking method is quite interesting. The term "kleftiko" comes from "klepto," meaning "to steal." Villagers in these remote areas would steal lambs from the valleys, take them to the mountains, and cook them in sealed ovens to avoid smoke and detection. No smoke meant no evidence of the stolen lamb, making this method both practical and delicious.

The village of Fikardou features the Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul, a significant historical and cultural site. This small church, built in the 18th century, stands as a basilica with a wooden roof, exemplifying the traditional architecture of the period. It plays a central role in the village's cultural life, particularly during the celebration of its patron saints on June 29.

Adjacent to the church is the village cemetery, which holds a serene and reflective atmosphere, providing a connection to the village's past inhabitants. The cemetery is a poignant reminder of the village’s history, nestled within the tranquil surroundings of Fikardou's natural beauty.

In 1974, during the Turkish invasion of Cyprus, the village of Fikardou was significantly impacted. A memorial plaque in the village honours four young men who lost their lives during this period. These individuals are remembered for their bravery and resistance against the invasion.

This memorial plaque serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by these young men and reflects the village’s resilience and the broader Cypriot struggle during the conflict.

The comedy series ANT1 “Aigia Fuchsia” was filmed here, featuring Fuchsia the goat, owned by the tavern keeper. The series depicts the life of residents in the fictional village of Paliochori in Cyprus, starting exactly a century before the show’s premiere, on October 6, 1908. The everyday lives of the villagers, hidden romances, quarrels, and friendships are portrayed through comedic situations and anachronisms, humorously critiquing politics, parties, current affairs, the church, traditions, and social phenomena of the modern era.

The village, however, harbors a mystery: a few years before the series begins, 15 villagers died on the same day, and no one knows why. The remaining residents refer to this event as “Melon Thanatikon” and try to move on with their lives, although the souls of the deceased seek justice and the truth about who is responsible for their deaths.