In the heart of Tiberias stands an imposing structure often mistaken for a medieval Crusader castle. However, this fortress has no connection to the Crusaders. Its true name is Chulav Fortress, built around 1750 during the Ottoman Empire by Chulay, the eldest son of Dahir al-Omar. As part of the region’s defensive network, the fortress played a critical role in safeguarding the area from external threats.
Yet, Tiberias does hold a fascinating connection to the Crusader era. In July 1187, Princess Eschiva of Bures, wife of Raymond III, Count of Tripoli, sought refuge in the city when it was besieged by Salah ad-Din (Saladin). On July 2, the Muslim commander’s forces surrounded Tiberias, prompting the Crusader army to march from Acre to the Sea of Galilee in an attempt to relieve the city.
This led to the infamous Battle of Hattin on July 4, 1187, where the Crusaders suffered a devastating defeat. Returning victorious to Tiberias, Salah ad-Din offered Princess Eschiva and her soldiers a chance to surrender peacefully. With her city and forces exhausted, the princess accepted his terms. True to his word, Salah ad-Din allowed her and the remaining knights to leave unharmed, making their way to Tripoli.
Today, the Chulav Fortress stands as a reminder of Tiberias’ layered history—an Ottoman stronghold often confused with Crusader legend, surrounded by tales of bravery, surrender, and the turning tides of empires.
A stroll along the Tiberias promenade, a mere hour-long, is a journey through time. It's a place where the lives of Prague and Vitebsk rabbis intersect with the legacies of Israeli generals and politicians. Here, the figures of Roman rulers, Jewish sages, medieval knights, and Muslim merchants, a diverse ensemble of history, come to life.
Initially, it may appear as a modest waterfront in a small lakeside town. However, it harbours numerous unexpected twists of history, stories that are now known to only a few, offering a surprising peek into the layered past of this remarkable city.
