Haifa, like all of Israel, is a mosaic of cultures shaped by countless eras and peoples. This was evident when I met a young man on Ben-Gurion Street who revived the almost-forgotten figure of the Ottoman water carrier—a character that was once indispensable in the bustling bazaars of the Ottoman Empire. Carrying a narrow-necked jug over his shoulder, he poured water with practiced precision, requiring the recipient to swiftly position their glass to catch the stream.
Today, this water carrier is more of a nostalgic memory, yet this inventive young man turned it into a vibrant business on the lively street. At first glance, it seemed delightful—a link to the past brought to life. However, a particular incident revealed the underlying tensions in this seemingly cheerful revival.
As he served coffee to a woman nearby, her polite smile met his friendly gesture, but her companion, visibly irritated, refused to pay. He dismissed the situation as intrusive marketing, reacting sharply and emotionally. The water carrier, however, remained calm, as if accustomed to such encounters. Moments later, accompanied by his partner, the two continued down the street.
When I approached them for a photo, our exchange was cordial—though no coffee was offered, and I was ready to support their effort. Then came an unexpected turn. The partner fixed his gaze on me and asked abruptly, “Are you a Christian?” Smiling, I replied, “No.” His expression changed instantly. Gripping the water carrier’s arm, they quickly walked away.
The moment left me unsettled, but its meaning soon became clear. It illustrated the subtle yet profound division of “us” and “them”—a deeply rooted sentiment that is omnipresent in the Middle East. Even amidst festivities and joy, these invisible boundaries persist.
Events like the “Holiday of Holidays” aspire to promote coexistence and shared celebration. Yet behind the façade, the ancient demarcation of belonging endures. To assume such divisions have vanished is a mistake—one we must remain mindful of as we navigate the layered and complex identity of Haifa and its people.
The Christian community of Haifa celebrates Christmas with great enthusiasm, transforming the German Colony into a vibrant hub of holiday cheer. Visitors flock to the lively streets to immerse themselves in the festive atmosphere, capture memorable moments in photographs, and enjoy the magical glow of twinkling lights. These lights, more than anything else, evoke a true sense of wonder.
However, beyond the surface excitement of the holiday lies a deeper story. Allow me to take you on a journey down Ben-Gurion Street, the heart of the German Colony in Haifa, where history and modernity blend seamlessly, creating an experience that is both timeless and enchanting.
