Tiberias Promenade: A Journey Through History

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Tiberias was founded by Herod Antipas, son of Herod the Great, in honour of the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Over the centuries, the city has witnessed countless epochs and rulers, each leaving an indelible mark on its history.

According to some accounts, one of the city's earliest synagogues was built by Hasidim, led by Menachem Mendel of Vitebsk. Other sources suggest survivors of the Chornobyl massacre established it. Restored in modern times, this synagogue, now a vibrant centre for the Hasidic community, plays a significant role in the city's history. Its walls resonate once more with the unique spirit of Hasidism, infusing the site with a profound sense of heritage and spiritual renewal.

The Archaeological Park of Tiberias, which is open to the public, preserves the remnants of a city shaped by the turbulent era of the Crusades. In 1099, following the conquest of Jerusalem, knights led by Tancred of Normandy entered Tiberias unopposed, claiming the city for their cause. Nearly a century later, in 1187, Saladin’s forces captured Tiberias and delivered a decisive blow to the Crusaders at the Battle of Hattin.

Strolling through Tiberias today, visitors can marvel at structures that stand out due to their unique character, built from black basalt and white limestone. This striking contrast in materials reflects the region's unique geography: the western shore of the Sea of Galilee, where Tiberias lies, is rich in limestone, while the eastern side, of volcanic origin, abounds in basalt. Throughout its history, the city's builders skillfully utilised these natural resources, crafting an architecture that not only embodies the landscape's distinct character but also intrigues the onlooker with its distinctiveness and enduring legacy.

The Greek Church and Monastery of the Twelve Apostles, built in the 19th century, stand on the site of an ancient synagogue once associated with Isaiah HaLevi Horowitz, a prominent rabbi from Prague. In the 16th century, Horowitz, a figure of immense influence, moved to Tiberias and became its chief rabbi, playing a pivotal role in shaping the city's religious life.

The synagogue erected in his honour symbolised the site's rich Jewish heritage. Over time, this legacy transitioned into the Christian monastery, a significant reflection of Tiberias's evolving history and cultural transformations. Today, the striking church with its red domes serves as a reminder of the city’s layered past, where faiths and traditions have intertwined for centuries.

A bridge, a marvel of architectural ingenuity, spans the passageway, connecting the two sections of the monastery. This unique architectural bond between its parts is a sight to behold. As we walk around the monastery, we descend toward the remnants of the ancient fortress wall, a testament to the city's rich history.

From there, a striking view opens up of Tiberias’ famous Leaning Tower—a symbol of the city that captivates with its unusual tilt and profound historical significance. This architectural curiosity, a testament to the city's layered history, invites us to reflect on the ingenuity and stories of those who shaped Tiberias over the centuries, forging a deep connection with the city's past.

Standing proudly as part of Tiberias’ southern fortress wall, the semi-circular tower is a testament to the vision of Dahir al-Omar, the influential 18th-century ruler of Galilee. Known for his transformative leadership, Dahir fortified and revitalised cities, shaping Acre into a bustling centre of trade and culture.

This tower, a key piece of his defences, is a testament to Dahir's strategic brilliance and unwavering ambition. Beyond its protective function, it mirrors Dahir’s broader goal of fostering urban prosperity and regional stability, cementing his legacy as one of Galilee’s most dynamic leaders.

The leaning tower of Tiberias, with its unique and captivating tilt, became an unofficial emblem of the city as early as the late 19th century when its striking tilt was captured in the first photographs of the area. Built on Crusader-era walls by Dahir al-Omar’s builders, the fortress wall and its tower are reminders of the city’s layered history. However, the lack of foundational calculations caused the tower to lean, giving it a unique and picturesque appearance.

This architectural curiosity, often affectionately referred to as the "Pisa Tower of Tiberias," Shares a charming imperfection and timeless grace with its Italian counterpart. This comparison, almost inevitable, offers Tiberias its version of an iconic leaning landmark, connecting it to a global heritage of architectural wonders.

As the sun sets over the Sea of Galilee, the Tiberias promenade transforms into a vibrant gathering spot, lit by the dazzling performance of the "Dancing Fountains." This light and music show breathes life into the summer evenings, drawing in locals and travellers to enjoy its enchanting display.

At the same time, a nearby water gauge silently tells the story of the Kinneret, the heart of this region. While its surface lies around 270 meters below sea level, the lake's connection to its surroundings is anything but static. Streams from the Golan Heights and Galilee feed its waters, while the Jordan River, the life-giving artery of this region, begins its journey here, flowing through the dramatic landscape of the Syrian-African Rift. This geological wonder shapes the region’s beauty and its lifeblood, reminding every visitor of the delicate balance that sustains life here.

The Tiberias promenade, named after Yigal Allon, carries the legacy of one of Israel’s most prominent leaders—a soldier, politician, and statesman. Born Yigal Paikowitz, his story is deeply tied to this region. His father, originally from Grodno, was among the pioneering Jewish settlers in the area, forging a deep and enduring connection between the Allon family and the shores of the Kinneret that still resonates today.

Across from the promenade stands a piece of history: the venerable Mosque of the Fishermen, an old mosque built by Dahir al-Omar, the Bedouin ruler of Galilee. This quiet, weathered structure symbolises the lives and traditions intertwined with the Kinneret’s enduring story, serving as a vital spiritual and social hub for those living on the waters of the Sea of Galilee.

The Church of St. Peter in Tiberias embodies centuries of history, rooted in the time of the Crusaders. Built on the foundations of an earlier mosque—traces of which remain visible—the site has undergone several transformations. It was later restored as a mosque, expanded during the Ottoman period, and served as a caravanserai. By the late 19th century, the current church was constructed, its architecture imbued with the symbolism of a boat, reflecting the early Christians' connection to the Sea of Galilee.

This nautical theme ties directly to a story from the New Testament, where Jesus appeared to fishermen on the Kinneret and called Peter (Simon) to become his disciple. In the church’s courtyard, a statue of St. Peter, installed in 1833, mirrors its counterpart in St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, emphasizing the site’s spiritual significance.

A notable feature is the memorial plaque dedicated to Polish soldiers from Anders' Army, a unit formed in the Soviet Union, later relocated to Iran, and partially stationed in Palestine during World War II. This plaque honors their role in the region, bridging the local history of Tiberias with a global narrative of courage and perseverance.

This historic building, with its striking white-stone window frames set in black basalt walls, was constructed in 1850 and originally named the “Haifa Hotel.” During the mid-19th century, it was fashionable to name hotels after cities, evoking a sense of modernity and prestige. However, its story remarkably turned in 1946 when the legendary Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum stayed here. Her visit left such a lasting impression that the hotel was renamed in her honour, adding another layer to its already rich history.

Following the establishment of the State of Israel, the building evolved into a vibrant hub of bohemian life, a place of cultural significance. It became a gathering place for artists, hosting exhibitions, performances, and creative evenings. Today, this tradition lives on. The former hotel now functions as a boutique hotel and cultural centre, blending art and history to create a unique and inspiring atmosphere where every corner whispers stories of its illustrious past.

A poignant sailboat sculpture, a creation of the esteemed Israeli artist and designer Ilana Goor, stands on the Tiberias promenade. This piece, more than just a tribute to Rachel Bluwstein's bittersweet poetry, is a solemn memorial to her love and loss. Rachel’s life, marked by hardship and quiet tragedy, was a testament to the power of love, a love that was always for the Sea of Galilee.

Despite her profound love for a man, he could not commit to a life in Palestine and Tiberias. Their relationship, a poignant tale of unfulfilled love, existed only through impassioned letters. These letters, brimming with yearning and heartbreak, vividly portrayed the enduring pain of separation and Rachel's unwavering bond to him and the land. This love, for both the man and the Kinneret, was the driving force behind her poetry and the inspiration for this memorial, where art and history intertwine to celebrate her spirit and her profound connection to the lake she adored.

Tiberias ' open-air art museum, a unique blend of art, history, and nature, is nestled between the Shirat HaYam Hotel and the Scottish House—once Galilee’s oldest hospital until 1953. This remarkable cultural project, brought to life through collaboration between the city’s cultural department, the Ministry of Tourism, and the Tiberias Development Authority, offers a vibrant fusion that is sure to intrigue and inspire.

The garden features works by numerous acclaimed sculptors, including pieces by the globally celebrated artist and designer Ilana Goor. This inspiring space invites visitors to wander among sculptures that resonate with the region's rich past and celebrate the vibrant creativity of the present. It’s a haven where art enhances the natural beauty of Tiberias, creating a serene yet thought-provoking experience for all who visit.

Often overlooked as a provincial town, Tiberias holds a unique and pivotal role in Jewish history. Here, the Jerusalem Talmud, one of the two foundational texts of Jewish law alongside the Babylonian Talmud, was finalised. This monumental achievement firmly establishes Tiberias as a centre of Jewish scholarship, a fact that may surprise many.

The city was also the birthplace of a unique system of vocalisation—symbols added to the Hebrew alphabet to indicate vowel sounds. This innovation, which profoundly influenced the reading and preservation of Hebrew texts, is a testament to Tiberias' contribution to Jewish culture. The artist David Payne pays homage to this linguistic heritage with his whimsical artwork, depicting characters adorned with dots and lines symbolising the vocalisation marks.

The Scottish Hotel in Tiberias, nestled within the historic buildings of the Scottish Mission, has a rich legacy dating back to the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. This site is a testament to the unwavering dedication of Dr. David Watt Torrance, affectionately known as the 'Galilean Doctor.' Despite encountering initial resistance from local rabbis due to his missionary activities, Torrance's perseverance and heroic efforts during two cholera epidemics earned him widespread respect and saved countless lives.

Torrance's legacy was furthered by his son, who, in the mid-20th century, established a nursing school at the hospital. By the early 1990s, the hospital underwent a remarkable transformation, evolving into a guesthouse and eventually a hotel that caters to pilgrims and travellers. Today, the Scottish Hotel seamlessly blends hospitality with history, offering a serene retreat that preserves its connection to the region’s traditions.

In the heart of Tiberias stands an imposing structure often mistaken for a medieval Crusader castle. However, this fortress has no connection to the Crusaders. Its true name is Chulav Fortress, built around 1750 during the Ottoman Empire by Chulay, the eldest son of Dahir al-Omar. As part of the region’s defensive network, the fortress played a critical role in safeguarding the area from external threats.

Yet, Tiberias does hold a fascinating connection to the Crusader era. In July 1187, Princess Eschiva of Bures, wife of Raymond III, Count of Tripoli, sought refuge in the city when it was besieged by Salah ad-Din (Saladin). On July 2, the Muslim commander’s forces surrounded Tiberias, prompting the Crusader army to march from Acre to the Sea of Galilee in an attempt to relieve the city.

This led to the infamous Battle of Hattin on July 4, 1187, where the Crusaders suffered a devastating defeat. Returning victorious to Tiberias, Salah ad-Din offered Princess Eschiva and her soldiers a chance to surrender peacefully. With her city and forces exhausted, the princess accepted his terms. True to his word, Salah ad-Din allowed her and the remaining knights to leave unharmed, making their way to Tripoli.

Today, the Chulav Fortress stands as a reminder of Tiberias’ layered history—an Ottoman stronghold often confused with Crusader legend, surrounded by tales of bravery, surrender, and the turning tides of empires.

Donna Gracia, known as the "Gracious Lady" by Portuguese poet Samuel Usque, was one of medieval Europe's wealthiest and most influential women. Born Beatrice de Luna Gracia Nasi, her life was marked by resilience and extraordinary leadership. Fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, she journeyed from Spain to Portugal, Amsterdam, Venice, Ferrara, and finally found refuge in Istanbul. Her vast trading fleet made her a formidable commerce figure and was crucial in negotiating peace between the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire.

In Tiberias, Donna Gracia’s impact was nothing short of transformative. As a benefactor of the city, she funded the construction of its walls, supported the establishment of synagogues, and initiated silk production, laying the foundation for Tiberias’ remarkable economic revival. Under her patronage, the city experienced a golden era of prosperity. Her influence was so profound that Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent proposed that she spearhead the revival of a Jewish homeland in the Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee, recognising her unparalleled contributions and remarkable legacy.

Donna Gracia’s story is not just one of survival but of vision and action. Her personal journey was intricately intertwined with the rebirth of Tiberias, a city she helped flourish. Her actions and vision were instrumental in the city's revival, marking her as a key figure in its history.

Standing proudly in the heart of Tiberias is the House of Governance, a complex of buildings that played a pivotal role during the Ottoman Empire. This structure, also known as the 'House of Governance,' was the bustling municipal hub of the city. Its second floor, serving as the city governor's residence, offered a unique vantage point over the daily life of Tiberias.

The lower floors were practical and versatile, reflecting the multi-functional nature of the Ottoman administration. The city jail ensured order here, while the post office, a vital link to the broader world, connected Tiberias to distant lands. This dual-purpose design exemplifies the Ottoman approach to governance—blending authority, communication, and public service within a single complex.

Walking through these weathered halls today, one can imagine the rhythms of a bygone era: the clatter of correspondence, the steady footsteps of guards, and the governor overseeing a city at the crossroads of history. The building remains a silent witness to the layered legacy of Tiberias, where administration, security, and connection were woven seamlessly into the fabric of everyday life.

Adjacent to the Saraya, a modest inn once offered weary travellers a place to rest. The square before it was not just a marketplace, but the vibrant heart of Tiberias, pulsating with commercial energy. Merchants from across the region converged here to trade their goods, postal carriages arrived with news and parcels, and European travellers paused on their journeys to the holy sites, all contributing to the city's bustling commercial life.

This square was more than just a marketplace; it was a dynamic hub connecting commerce, transport, and pilgrimage routes. Its energy not only captured the spirit of Tiberias as a city at the intersection of cultures and journeys but also played a pivotal role in shaping its living history. Traders, travellers, and locals came together here, their interactions leaving an indelible mark on the city's past. Today, its echoes remind us of the bustling life that once defined this corner of the city.

As we step onto the main road, Tiberias's historic core gives way to its newer quarters, marking a transition from ancient to modern. These areas began to take shape organically during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, driven by waves of migration, burgeoning trade networks, and the relentless march of modernisation that redefined the city's landscape.

Here, Tiberias stretched its boundaries and embraced change, blending its time-honoured traditions with fresh influences. The architecture and bustling streets tell a story not of replacement but of transformation—a city reimagining itself while keeping its heritage alive. This passage from the historical to the contemporary encapsulates Tiberias' enduring spirit: a town rooted in history yet constantly evolving to meet the future, a unique charm that harmoniously blends the old and the new.