A Hidden Gem in the Jerusalem Hills
Nestled in the serene landscapes of the Jerusalem mountains lies a natural park that follows the meandering path of the Kissalon Creek. This tranquil haven is nourished by the crystal-clear waters of the Ein Rafa spring, a source revered since ancient times for its healing properties. Centuries ago, the Crusaders recognized the spring’s value, establishing an estate here that served as a sanatorium for the Hospitaller Order’s weary soldiers. Today, the park stands as a testament to nature’s enduring beauty and the rich tapestry of history that has unfolded along its shores.
Just a short distance from Jerusalem, near Castell National Park, lies Ein Hemed, known in Crusader times as Aqua Bella. This site, shrouded in history, holds the remnants of a 12th-century Crusader structure—possibly a fortress or farm—built to oversee the critical road to Jerusalem. Later, it served as a hospital for Crusader soldiers. Despite its partial ruin, the castle’s grounds stretch impressively, bearing witness to its storied past.
Not far from the fortress, an old Muslim cemetery stands in quiet reverence, featuring the grave of Sheikh Abdellah surrounded by ancient oaks. The park itself is graced by the Kissalon Stream, which flows from the Jerusalem hills towards the Mediterranean Sea. Though the stream’s waters are modest, often disappearing underground, they breathe life into the reserve, nurturing towering trees, gentle waterfalls, delicate creeks, vibrant blooms, and a symphony of birdsong. In autumn, the golden hues of fallen leaves lend the park an enchanting, almost European atmosphere.
Ein Hemed is thoughtfully designed for visitors, with numerous picnic areas, barbecue spots, benches, tables, and water fountains. For those seeking a longer retreat, the park also offers camping facilities, making it a perfect destination to enjoy both the natural beauty and historical depth of this extraordinary site.
The spring at Ein Hemed is a classic example of the many springs found in the Jerusalem mountains. Its waters emerge after seeping through layers of dolomite rock, only to collect where an impermeable layer halts their descent. This geological phenomenon has given life to the spring, which has been cherished for centuries for its purported healing and miraculous properties.
Local Arab traditions speak of the spring’s water as a natural aid for male vitality and a blessing for parents hoping for sons. Meanwhile, the Jewish community of Jerusalem found spiritual significance in these waters. They used them to prepare Passover matzoh, ensuring its purity, and the nearby pool became a sacred site for the Tashlich ritual, performed on the eve of Yom Kippur.
This blend of natural wonder and spiritual reverence continues to make the Ein Hemed spring a source of fascination, embodying the deep connection between the land, its people, and their beliefs.
The fortified Crusader estate at Ein Hemed, known as Aqua Bella, was constructed over two decades between 1140 and 1160 CE. These years fell under the reign of Fulk of Anjou, King of Jerusalem and a prominent leader of the Crusaders. Aqua Bella was part of a broader network of fortifications built during this period, alongside Belmont near the modern settlement of Tzuba and structures in Emmaus.
Historical records of Aqua Bella are scarce, but one notable mention dates to 1163. At that time, the estate was proposed as a tribute to the King of Hungary in gratitude for a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. However, the Hungarian king never made the journey, and the planned gift was never realized. What is clear from surviving documents is that Aqua Bella belonged to the Order of the Hospitallers. Likely, it served as a resting place for pilgrims traveling to Jerusalem.
The estate featured a central courtyard surrounded by covered arched vaults, parts of which are still remarkably well preserved. One room houses equipment used for pressing olive oil, offering a glimpse into the Crusaders’ activities here. Beyond olive oil production, the estate was also known for making wine and sugar from sugarcane, reflecting the agricultural ingenuity of its time. Today, Aqua Bella stands as a testament to the Crusader era, blending history with the serene beauty of its surroundings.