Kursi was a major agricultural centre. They weren't just praying; they were producing olive oil and wine on a massive scale.
Upgrading the Tech: The Screw Press If you look at the olive press there, you're looking at the "high-tech" of the 5th and 6th centuries.
The Old Way: Before this, they used a basic conical press.
The Upgrade: They switched to a wooden beam with a massive screw. This lets them squeeze every last drop of oil out of the olive pulp. It was way more efficient and, in fact, proves that the monastery was at its peak during the late Byzantine era.
Nature and Daily Life in the Mosaics The mosaics on the floor are like an ancient Instagram feed of what life was like:
The Birds: You'll see pictures of ibises. Fun fact: you can still see these exact birds hanging around the Sea of Galilee today!
The Bread: There's also a depiction of a container that was likely used for storing bread.
The Calm Before the Storm The mosaic's style and the specific stones used confirm that this was all happening right before the Arab conquest. It's pretty wild to think that the very hills you're looking at—the Golan Heights—are where the Arab armies first rolled through to take Byzantine Palestine.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
