This part of the story is incredible because it shows how the military logic of the mountain hasn't changed in 2,000 years. Between 1948 and 1967, Susita wasn't an archaeological site—it was a high-stakes frontline outpost.
Here is how that "modern" history played out:
The 1:40 AM Capture The modern saga started during the War of Independence. According to the original radio logs, Israeli forces captured Susita at exactly 1:40 AM. Photos from that night show young soldiers in British-style helmets scrambling over Roman ruins to set up a defence. Their main job was to make sure the Syrian army didn't push down the mountain toward Kibbutz Ein Gev.
Life on an Island For 19 years, Susita was essentially an Israeli island surrounded by Syrian positions.
The Only Road: Since the land routes were blocked, the only way to get supplies was by boat across the Sea of Galilee. There's a famous quote from back then: "This pier and this boat are our only road to the rest of the Jewish settlements."
The Water Crisis: Just as the Romans did, the soldiers struggled with thirst. The ancient 24km aqueducts were long gone, so the post was completely dependent on water being hauled up from the lake.
- Fighting in the Footsteps of Legionnaires The Israeli soldiers ended up using the same defensive spots as the ancient Greeks and Romans:
The Moat: That 7-meter-wide ancient ditch became the primary defence against Syrian infantry charges.
The Towers: The spots where the Romans kept their giant spear-throwing catapults were turned into modern machine-gun nests and observation points.
Concrete & Basalt: They built their bunkers (blindages) directly into the East Gate. In 1951, David Ben-Gurion even wrote to the locals saying his "heart was with them," knowing that the guys stationed among those basalt columns were the only thing keeping the peace.
- Notebooks and Ruins There's a beautiful, haunting contrast in the records. While living among massive Roman ruins and basalt columns, the soldiers kept daily logs in simple ringed notebooks. Today, those handwritten Hebrew notes on border incidents are displayed in museums alongside ancient pottery and coins.
It's as if the mountain itself dictates that whoever stands there—whether they speak Latin or Hebrew—has to use the same rocks and the same logic to survive.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
