Moving on to our next stop: Susita (also known as Hippos). If the military story of Nukieb was about Israel's "coming of age," Susita is the ancient bedrock that literally provided the high ground for that history.
Susita: The "Horse" on the Hill The name itself is a bit of a language game. In Greek, "hippos" means "horse," and in Aramaic, "Susita" means "Horse." Why? Because the mountain it sits on is shaped exactly like a horse's back or a saddle.
- A Pagan Rival to Tiberias Founded: It was founded around the 2nd century BC under the Seleucids as a fortress that was virtually impregnable.
The Decapolis: During the Roman era, it was part of the Decapolis—an elite club of ten Hellenistic cities that were the "cool kids" of Greek culture in the region.
The Opposite: It was basically the pagan, Greek-style "rival" to the Jewish city of Tiberias, which sits right across the lake.
- A Time Capsule in the Dust What makes Susita so special is that, after a massive earthquake levelled it in 749 AD, people basically just walked away and never returned. That turned it into a perfect archaeological "time capsule."
Church Capital: Archaeologists have found eight churches so far. Susita was actually the seat of a Bishop. In one spot, they found a sarcophagus of a holy woman, and in another, a mosaic of "loaves and fishes"—a direct nod to the miracles of Jesus we talked about at Kursi.
The Bling: In thecentrer, you'll see the Roman Forum. It's paved in black basalt, but the columns are made of pink granite shipped from Aswan, Egypt. Talk about a luxury import!
The 2025 Jackpot: Just last year, archaeologists struck gold—literally. They found a stash of 97 gold coins and jewellery from the Byzantine era. They look like they were minted yesterday, even though they date back to the time of Emperor Heraclius.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
