In Cluj's old town, Sextil Iosif Pușcariu, born in Austro-Hungarian Brașov on January 4, 1877, and deceased on May 5, 1948, lends his name to a street with a web of ironies. A philologist educated in France and Germany, Pușcariu started his scholarly career in 1906 by compiling a general dictionary of the Romanian language, advancing it to the letter "L". He also established an atlas of the language and founded a research institute in Cluj, where he spearheaded the creation of a new university.
During World War I, Pușcariu served in the Austro-Hungarian Army, but at the war's end, he fervently supported the formation of Greater Romania. As head of foreign affairs in Bukovina's provisional government and founder of the newspaper Glasul Bucovinei, he, along with Ion Nistor, facilitated the region's union with Romania in November 1918. However, Pușcariu's legacy is marred by his increasing radicalization in the 1920s and '30s, including imposing a Jewish quota at the University of Cluj and open support for fascist politics. During World War II, he even led a propaganda institute in Berlin to promote Romanian culture and counter Hungarian claims over Northern Transylvania following the Second Vienna Award in 1940.
His ideologies and associations with the Iron Guard eventually led to his resignation in 1943. After Romania shifted towards communism, his reputation waned, and he faced legal scrutiny before he died in 1948. His scholarly work would be revived only after the fall of the Communist regime in 1989. And so, the street named after him connects the city's oldest Catholic cathedral with the birthplace of a legendary Hungarian king—a compelling backdrop for a man who held such complex and often contradictory views.
Imagine a half-day walk through Cluj, the Transylvanian capital, where history meets modernity. You could start your journey at the house of a famous Hungarian king, absorbing the stories embedded in the aged bricks and mortar. Continue to the city's oldest church, a sanctuary of architectural and spiritual grace. Next, ascend the most picturesque tower for a panoramic view of Cluj, offering a bird's-eye glimpse of the cityscape below.
As you stroll, consider the diverse architecture—Secessionist or Art Nouveau—that defines the city's visual personality. Feel the pulse of local life at the central collective farm market, where you can revel in the aroma and flavours of fresh produce and traditional foods. Follow the charming canals and streams that lace through the city, finally relaxing in the shade of the urban park, a haven amid bustling life.
To cap off your journey, indulge in a meal at a local restaurant, like Maimuța Plângătoare, renowned for its soups and local brews. The atmosphere inside and in its cosy courtyard will make you feel like you've discovered Cluj's heart.
