Believe it or not, we almost didn't know this place existed! Back in the 1970s, workers were trying to build a modern road up to the Golan Heights—following the same path as the ancient traders—when they literally bumped into the monastery ruins.
Why exactly here? It wasn't a random choice. The monks picked this spot for two big reasons:
The Water: The Samakh Stream provided a steady supply of fresh water.
The Location: It sat right on the main trade route from the lake up to the Golan (which they used to call Bashan).
The Timeline of Kursi The Peak (585 AD): Archaeologists found mosaics depicting animals, plants, and scripture, dating back to this year.
The Hit (614 AD): The Persian invasion trashed the place pretty badly.
The End (741 AD): They rebuilt it, but a massive earthquake finally took it down for good. After that, some Muslim settlers used the ruins for a small village in the late 8th century, but the monastery's glory days were over.
Modern Vibes and "Sand Magic" Today, it's a super peaceful park where pilgrims still come to hold Mass or meditate. But there's one really cool modern feature you've gotta see: The Metal Cone.
It's sitting in a round sandbox, and when you rotate it, the cone "prints" words into the sand. These words are from the Bible story about the miracle that happened right here—the one where a man was healed, and the "demons" were cast into a herd of pigs that ran into the Kinneret. It's a pretty unique way to "read" the place's history!
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
