In the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town, a tale of mystery, intrigue, and transformation unfolds, winding through the narrow closes and ancient buildings that have witnessed centuries of history.
The story begins with William Brodie, a respected cabinetmaker by day and a notorious burglar by night. Deacon Brodie, as he was known, led a double life that would eventually inspire Robert Louis Stevenson’s famous novella, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. By daylight, Brodie crafted elegant furniture for Edinburgh's elite, but under the cover of darkness, he used his skills to unlock the doors of those very same clients, stealing from the homes he was once trusted to furnish. His downfall came in 1788 when his secret life was exposed, leading to his execution in front of a crowd of 40,000 people. Brodie’s tale, a blend of respectability and vice, left a lasting mark on the city’s lore.
Not far from Brodie’s former haunts lies Lady Stair's House, a 17th-century townhouse nestled in Lady Stair’s Close. Originally built in 1622 for Sir William Gray of Pittendrum, this house witnessed the rise and fall of various occupants until it was purchased by Elizabeth, Dowager Countess of Stair, in 1719. Elizabeth was not just any noblewoman; she was a figure who captured the imagination of Edinburgh’s society. Born Elizabeth Dundas, she married John Dalrymple, the 1st Earl of Stair, a man deeply involved in the political intrigues of the time, notably linked to the controversial Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. Despite her husband's tarnished reputation, Elizabeth became renowned for her intelligence, beauty, and charm, which made her one of the most celebrated women in Scottish society.
After her husband’s death, Elizabeth chose to live in the house that would later bear her name. She was a widow known for her sharp wit and strong personality, often hosting gatherings of the city’s elite in her home. Rumor has it that Lady Stair was a woman of many suitors and, despite her widowhood, was never without admirers. Some stories even suggest she used her influence to manipulate courtly matters to her advantage, a testament to her resilience and cunning in a world dominated by men. Her presence added a certain allure to Lady Stair’s House, making it more than just a historical residence—it became a symbol of her indomitable spirit and the whispered scandals that often followed the noble classes of the time.
Today, Lady Stair's House is home to the Writers’ Museum, celebrating Scotland’s literary giants like Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Stevenson himself. The building stands as a monument to the country’s rich literary heritage, its stone walls echoing with the words and stories that shaped Scottish culture.
A short walk away, hidden within Wardrop's Court, one encounters a peculiar sight: four brightly colored dragons perched above the entrance. These mythical beasts, a curious addition from the late 19th century, were part of a broader effort to rejuvenate Edinburgh’s Old Town, led by the visionary town planner Patrick Geddes. The dragons, though relatively recent additions, seem to guard the passageways of the ancient city, standing as silent sentinels over centuries of history.
Together, these locations weave a narrative that captures the essence of Edinburgh—a city where the lines between reality and legend blur, and where history is alive in every stone and shadow.
Your day begins with a visit to the renowned Speyside Cooperage, where you witness the craftsmanship of barrel-making for whisky. Immersed in tradition, you then head to the Royal Lochnagar Distillery near Balmoral Castle, where you enjoy a whisky tasting and learn about its production secrets.
Next, you explore Balmoral Castle, the royal family’s majestic estate, strolling through its gardens and grand interiors. Afterward, you journey to Edinburgh, where an elegant dinner at "The Dome" awaits, followed by a serene stroll through the Old Town. Your day concludes with a restful night at the Virgin Hotel on Victoria Street, where modern luxury meets historical charm.