Pinsteps. The Oradea Theatre Square: A Mosaic of Hungarian Cultural History
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The theatre square in Oradea is a kaleidoscope of Hungarian cultural history, housing landmarks that span various architectural styles and periods. On the eastern part of the square, the three-store building is seen. Before the structures were built, the land was occupied by a ground-floor house owned by jeweller Kolozsváry Sándor. This building was torn down in 1910, and in its place rose a three-storey modern palace, designed by architect Sztarill Ferenc and completed in 1912. The ground floor was a commercial hub featuring a jewellery shop and fashion house, while the upper floors were residential, containing seven seven-room apartments.

Opposite it on the western side stands the Starill Palace, another masterpiece by Sztarill Ferenc, built in 1902. Not just a builder but a designer too, Sztarill favoured the Art Nouveau style for the palace. The ground floor initially hosted the renowned EMKE Café, a popular gathering spot for young journalists and poets. The famed poet Ady Endre was a regular attendee. Over time, the building was converted into the Astoria Hotel, closing briefly after World War II before reopening in 1975, albeit without its original decor.

Then, of course, there's the theatre itself, constructed from 1899-1900 by architects Rimanóczy Kálmán Jr., Guttman József, and Rendes Vilmos from Nagyvárad. The Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer crafted the original design. It opened on October 15, 1900, but its cultural roots date even further. The first Hungarian-language theatrical performance in Oradea was held on August 26, 1798, at the Black Eagle restaurant. The theatre square thus encapsulates not just bricks and mortar but layers of cultural, historical, and artistic life, making it not just a physical space but a monument to Hungarian heritage.


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Evgeny Praisman
Oradea

Your walking tour could start at the Church of the Descent of the Holy Spirit, a spiritual cornerstone of Oradea, reflecting centuries of faith and community. As you meander through the city, you approach the grand Moskovits Palace and the elegant Stern Palace, each a testament to the opulent past and architectural splendor of the city.

Passing the Apollo Palace, you're reminded of the city's artistic and theatrical heritage, culminating at the grand Maria Theater, a cultural beacon that has hosted countless performances. Nearby, the central Piata Unirii (Union Square) is not just the heart of the city but also a gateway to the Black Eagle Palace, an icon of Art Nouveau architecture.

As you explore, the cityscape tells stories of Oradea's literary circles and poets who frequented these landmarks, weaving a rich tapestry of cultural and intellectual history. The Black Eagle Palace, in particular, with its cafes and halls, might have been the very place where literary societies gathered, and muses were met, against a backdrop of architectural beauty. This is a journey not just through the streets of Oradea but through the annals of its vibrant cultural and literary past.

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Evgeny Praisman (author)
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