Building Roman baths on top of a dry, isolated mountain was the ultimate ancient "flex." It proved that Roman engineers could bring luxury anywhere, no matter how hostile the landscape.
The Baths: A High-Tech Social Club The Thermae (baths) in the southern part of the city weren't just for getting clean; they were the heart of social life in Susita. If you wanted to hear the latest gossip or close a business deal, this was the place to be.
- The Engineering Miracle Since there's no water on the mountain, every splash in those pools was a miracle of physics.
The 25km Commute: Water travelled 25 kilometres through the aqueduct system.
The Siphon: To get the water up the cliff, it was pushed through high-pressure stone pipes using the "communicating vessels" principle.
- Underfloor Heating (The Hypocaust) When you look at the ruins, you'll see small pillars made of ceramic tiles.
The Oven: Huge furnaces called praefurnia burned wood outside.
The Heat: Hot air circulated between those pillars, heating the marble floors from below. It got so hot that bathers had to wear thick wooden sandals to protect their feet from burning.
- Status in Stone Take a look at that fallen granite column. You'll notice it's a different colour and texture from the local black basalt.
Imported Luxury: This granite (likely grey-pink from Egypt or Turkey) was shipped across the sea and hauled up the mountain just for show.
The Message: Basalt was for strength, but granite and marble were for status. It told everyone that Susita was a wealthy, "world-class" city.
- The Tragedy of 749 AD The way the columns are lying today is a haunting "snapshot" of the end.
The Big One: In 749 AD, a massive earthquake levelled the city.
The "Frozen" Moment: Most of the columns fell in the same direction, almost parallel to the ground. Archaeologists even found evidence that the water was still flowing through the pipes when the walls came crashing down. The city didn't just fade away; it literally lay down" in an instant.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
