The Cathedral of Susita (also known as the Central Church or the Bishop's Basilica) is the crown jewel of the city's Byzantine era. It wasn't just a place of worship; it was the seat of power for the entire region.
The Cathedral: The Bishop's Seat Built between the late 5th and early 6th centuries, this was the largest and most opulent church in Susita. As a cathedral, it housed the Bishop's official throne (cathedra).
Recycling for the Faith This site contains the highest concentration of spolia in the city. The Christians physically moved massive grey granite and marble columns from ruined Roman temples and the civil basilica to build this Cathedral. It was a massive logistical effort designed to give the new faith an ancient, imperial feel.
The Altar and the "Synthronon" The excavations revealed a remarkably preserved altar area that proves the church's high status:
The Synthronon: You can still see the semi-circular stone benches in the apse where the Bishop and the high-ranking priests sat during services.
Reliquaries: Beneath the altar, archaeologists found special niches designed to hold the holy relics of saints, a key feature for an important pilgrimage site.
- Masterpiece Mosaics Unlike the "Burnt Church" with its spelling errors, the mosaics here are world-class.
High Art: The floors were covered in intricate geometric patterns, birds, fish, and baskets of fruit.
The Connection: The sheer quality of the work suggests the community had direct artistic and financial ties to Constantinople, the heart of the Byzantine Empire.
- An Entire Religious Quarter The Cathedral is not a standalone building; it was the centre of a massive administrative complex.
The Baptistery: Right next door is a room with a baptismal font.
Administrative Hub: The complex included living quarters and offices where the affairs of the entire diocese were managed.
- Sealed by the Earthquake The Cathedralides is the clearest "autopsy" of the 749 AD earthquake.
The Fall: The columns lie in perfect, parallel rows, showing the exact direction of the shockwave.
The "Time Capsule": When the roof collapsed, the wooden beams and clay tiles fell directly onto the mosaic floors, "sealing" them away and protecting them from the elements for 1,200 years until modern archaeologists uncovered them.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
