The Western Gate and the layout of Susita reveal a fascinating truth about the city: it was designed to be a "fortress in the clouds." Unlike most cities, Susita was a one-way street when it came to major traffic.
The "Cul-de-Sac" in the Sky 1. The Only Way In The city had only one real land entrance—the narrow neck of land to the East.
The Lifeline: Every wagon of grain, every visitor, and every single basalt slab used for the Forum had to arrive through the East Gate from the Golan Heights.
Natural Defence: Because the mountain is surrounded by cliffs on almost every side, the East was the only vulnerable point and, therefore, the most heavily fortified.
- The Western "Dead End" The main street (the Decumanus Maximus) sliced across the city and ended at the western cliff.
Not a Road, but a View: The gates and columns you see at the western end of the Forum didn't lead to a road down to the lake. Instead, they opened up to a lookout point or public buildings perched on the very edge of the abyss.
The Final Point: This was the city's "cul-de-sac." Citizens would walk the length of the city, pass through the bustling Forum, and reach these decorative gates as the grand finale of the urban space.
- Nature as an Armour From the west, the city didn't need massive defensive walls or gates to stop an army. The sheer drop toward the Sea of Galilee made it impregnable.
Decorative Grandeur: The columns and "Propylaea" (monumental gateways) here were purely for style. They served as a frame for the sky and the water below, emphasising that beyond these stones lay nothing but the horizon.
- Life Beyond the Gate Passing through the western side of the Forum meant moving from the structured world of Roman law and commerce into a space of reflection. It was where the city met the elements, offering a breathtaking view of Tiberias and the Galilee that remains just as stunning today.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
