Looking out from the terrace of the old dining hall today, it's hard to believe how much tension used to fill this view. It's like a "live" history book where the peaceful blue of the Kinneret meets the scars of a 2,000-year struggle.
Here is why that specific viewpoint is so significant:
The "Lifeline" Pier If you look down toward the water's edge, you can still see the spot where the pier used to be. For nearly 20 years (1948–1967), that wasn't just a place to fish—it was a lifeline. During the winter, when the mud roads were totally washed out, that pier and a single boat were the only way to get food, mail, or medicine to the soldiers on the mountain. From right where you're standing, soldiers would watch the lights of Tiberias across the lake, feeling like they were on a lonely island.
Walking on Masterpieces When you look directly down from the dining hall terrace, you get a bird's-eye view of the archaeological digs.
The Colour Contrast: You can see the "stone game" perfectly—heavy black basalt blocks mixed with grey granite columns that once lined the fancy main streets.
The Hidden Art: Among the dark rocks, you'll spot flashes of colour from the mosaic floors. These ancient geometric patterns were meant to show off the city's wealth to Greek and Roman visitors.
- From Luxury to Logistics The irony is wild: in ancient times, those mosaics were the height of luxury. In the 20th century, Israeli soldiers were literally stomping over those same masterpieces in their combat boots to get to their bunkers or grab a plate of food.
It's one of the few places in the world where you can stand in a 1950s concrete bunker, look out over a 1st-century Roman city, and see the same view that both generations of soldiers used to scout for enemies.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
