Pinsteps. Elegant Houses and Palatial Legacies: The Kovach House and the Palace of Várad on Unirii Square
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The Palace of Várad, with its historical weight and resilient nature, has a remarkable counterpart across the square in the form of the Kovach House. Constructed in the early 19th century, this elegant tower showcases the neoclassical style, exuding an air of sophistication that has withstood the test of time. It, too, has a history marked by resilience, notably being rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1836.

Located in Union Square, Oradea, the Greek-Catholic Episcopal Palace achieved its current design in 1905, the brainchild of famed architect Rimanóczy Kálmán Jr., who was particularly influential between 1900 and 1912. Before its transformation, the spot housed a Baroque tower, the Romanian Church United with Rome's headquarters. This earlier building saw significant alterations, including an added floor in 1778, a rebuild after an 1836 fire, and a new wing on Mihai Pavel Street between 1874 and 1875.

Bishop Demetrie Radu commissioned the existing palace's design from Rimanóczy. The old building was demolished mainly, although some parts were preserved, with work starting on August 10, 1903, and concluding with an inauguration on July 11, 1905.

The palace interior features stairs made from pink-red Vascau marble, an expansive stained-glass panel, and varying room styles. The upper floor housed the bishop's residence and key chambers, while offices and guest rooms were on the ground level. The Great Dining Room, probably used as a Congregation Hall, was neo-Gothic, highlighted by a star-shaped vault and pastel green decor. Additional rooms, including those facing Mihai Pavel Street and Union Square, showcased varying styles from Baroque to eclectic, each adorned with intricate details from vaults to stucco ornaments.

The palace is undergoing restoration following a 2018 fire, with work expected to last for three years.


Pictures uploaded by @Evgeny Praisman
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Evgeny Praisman
Oradea

Your walking tour could start at the Church of the Descent of the Holy Spirit, a spiritual cornerstone of Oradea, reflecting centuries of faith and community. As you meander through the city, you approach the grand Moskovits Palace and the elegant Stern Palace, each a testament to the opulent past and architectural splendor of the city.

Passing the Apollo Palace, you're reminded of the city's artistic and theatrical heritage, culminating at the grand Maria Theater, a cultural beacon that has hosted countless performances. Nearby, the central Piata Unirii (Union Square) is not just the heart of the city but also a gateway to the Black Eagle Palace, an icon of Art Nouveau architecture.

As you explore, the cityscape tells stories of Oradea's literary circles and poets who frequented these landmarks, weaving a rich tapestry of cultural and intellectual history. The Black Eagle Palace, in particular, with its cafes and halls, might have been the very place where literary societies gathered, and muses were met, against a backdrop of architectural beauty. This is a journey not just through the streets of Oradea but through the annals of its vibrant cultural and literary past.

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Evgeny Praisman (author)
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