Crossing the bridge, we enter the historic Bairro da Misericórdia, a neighborhood located in the parish of Glória e Vera Cruz. This area holds deep significance in Aveiro's urban fabric, its name a reminder of the enduring influence of the Santa Casa da Misericórdia, the charitable institution that shaped much of Portugal's religious and social life. As we walk along Rua de Coimbra, the main street running through the district, we are reminded of the powerful role that religious institutions played in Portugal, balancing with the intellectual tradition that Coimbra has long represented.
Coimbra, the birthplace of critical thinking and a beacon of knowledge, was also a center for the conflicting ideologies of liberalism and conservatism. These forces collided during Portugal’s Civil War, a struggle that saw the triumph of liberalism in the end. Yet, alongside this ideological transformation, a sweet surprise emerged from the region’s rich religious history — the beloved Ovos Moles de Aveiro.
This renowned delicacy traces its roots to the convent kitchens of Aveiro, where, in the 17th century, nuns perfected the art of transforming simple egg yolks and sugar into something extraordinary. The abundance of egg whites used for clarifying wine and starching robes left an excess of yolks, which the inventive nuns used to create Ovos Moles. The result was a delicate, soft sweet, often encased in wafers shaped like sea shells — a nod to Aveiro’s connection to the sea.
As religious orders closed in the 19th century, the secret recipes of Ovos Moles were passed into the hands of skilled artisans, ensuring that this unique treat would live on. Women like Maria da Apresentação became guardians of this tradition, preserving it with care and craftsmanship. Over time, the dessert became a symbol of Aveiro itself, a testament to the city’s cultural and historical richness.
Today, as we wander through the Bairro da Misericórdia, the taste of Ovos Moles lingers on the palate, a reminder of Aveiro’s fascinating past and the traditions that continue to define it.
Join us for a three-hour walking tour through Aveiro, often called the “Venice of Portugal” for its picturesque canals and traditional moliceiro boats. We’ll begin in the Beira Mar district, exploring narrow streets with colorful tiled facades and Art Nouveau architecture, and hear tales of Aveiro’s history as a center for salt production and fishing.
As we stroll along the historic Rua de Coimbra, you’ll discover the story behind Aveiro’s famous ovos moles—creamy custard treats wrapped in rice paper—and other local pastries. We’ll make a stop at a popular shopping center for a modern taste of the city before crossing Aveiro’s iconic pedestrian bridges, like the colorful Ponte do Laço, which offer stunning canal views. The route will lead us to Praça do Peixe, a lively square where traditional and contemporary Aveiro meet, rounding off the journey with a true sense of this charming city’s history and flavors.
