The road connecting Susita to the Golan Heights (leading toward modern-day Kibbutz Afik) is one of the most dramatic and strategically vital stretches of land in Israel. Today, it is a rugged path of weathered asphalt and sharp basalt, passable only by heavy 4x4 vehicles or determined hikers, but for centuries, it was the city's only lifeline.
The "Umbilical Cord" of the City 1. The Only Way In Because Susita is a "cliff-island" surrounded by abysses on three sides, this narrow "saddle" (the land bridge to the East) was the only way to reach the city.
The Logistics of Grandeur: Every single granite column, every basalt slab for the Forum, and every wagon of grain had to be hauled by oxen up this steep, winding serpentine.
The Engineering Feat: The famous Susita Aqueduct followed this exact path. Ancient engineers used the natural slope of this ridge to pipe water under pressure from the springs of the Golan (near modern Afik) directly into the city's reservoirs. Without this road, the city couldn't exist.
- The Modern "Death Trap" In the 20th century, the geography of this road dictated a violent history.
The Siege: For the Israeli soldiers stationed at the Susita outpost between 1948 and 1967, this narrow ridge was their only connection to the outside world.
The Crosshairs: The road was entirely exposed. Syrian positions at the top of the Golan Heights (near Afik and Kfar Haruv) looked directly down on it. Delivering food or ammunition was a suicidal mission, as any vehicle could be picked off by Syrian artillery from above.
- The Breakthrough of 1967 On June 10, 1967, this "impassable" axis became a theatre of war.
The Surge: Israeli paratroopers and infantry pushed up this very ridge to capture the Syrian positions at the top.
The Result: Taking the heights above Susita finally broke the 19-year siege and secured the safety of the kibbutzim in the valley below.
- A Bridge Between Realities Today, looking at the broken, basalt-strewn path, you can sense the immense effort required by everyone who came before—from the Roman stonemasons to the Israeli paratroopers. This road connects two worlds: the fertile, humid Galilee valley and the harsh, volcanic Golan Plateau.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
