The Western Gate serves as the grand finale of the city's main axis, leading us into one of the most sophisticated chapters of life in Susita: the Odeon.
The Odeon: Culture on the Edge Stepping through the western gates didn't lead to a dead end, but rather into a cultural "cluster" perched dramatically over the cliffside.
- High Art for an Elite Audience Unlike the massive open-air theatres found in other Roman cities, the Odeon was a small, intimate, and roofed building.
Capacity: About 400 people.
The Purpose: This was a venue for "high" culture—poetry readings, musical performances (often featuring the lyre), and likely meetings of the city council (the Bouleuterion).
The Contrast: If the Forum was the place for noisy politics and haggling, the Odeon was the zone for intellectual leisure and philosophy.
- A Theatre with a View The Roman architects used the location to create a breathtaking theatrical effect.
The Backdrop: Imagine sitting in these basalt seats, listening to music, while the Sea of Galilee and the setting sun were visible through the openings behind the performers.
The Layout: You can still see the semi-circular contours typical of theatre architecture, built with massive basalt foundations to anchor the building to the very edge of the plateau.
- Engineering on the Abyss The Odeon is a prime example of how Roman engineers adapted complex structures to dangerous topography.
They managed to fit a sophisticated cultural centre into a very limited and steep space, using the mountain's natural slope to support the seating.
It remains one of the few objects of its kind in the region that preserves such a clear connection between urban planning and the natural landscape.
- The Final Horizon Standing here, you realise that the city didn't just "stop" at the cliff. It reached out toward the horizon. For the elite of Susita, this was the ultimate spot to celebrate their Greek and Roman heritage while looking out over the wild beauty of the Galilee.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
