The Southern Bastion is a fascinating place where military grit literally became the foundation for civilian luxury. It's the spot where you can see how the "Pax Romana" (Roman Peace) changed the city's skyline.
The Bastion: From Ballistas to Bathhouses 1. The Front Line of Defence Before the baths were built, this southern cliff was home to a massive Roman Bastion.
The Fortress: It consisted of four large halls and two heavy towers, designed to stop any army from scrambling up the mountain from the valley below.
The Artillery: Inside, the Romans stationed ballistas—powerful catapults. Archaeologists found numerous 18-kilogram basalt cannonballs here, proving the city was locked and loaded, ready for a serious siege.
- The Mark of the Legionnaire (The Caliga) One of the most "human" finds in this sector is a footprint left in wet plaster by a Caliga—the hobnailed boot of a Roman soldier.
The "Little Boot": This type of footwear gave Emperor Caligula his nickname.
Linguistic Legacy: An interesting fact from the site's display is that the Hebrew word Kalgas (a cruel or brutal soldier) actually comes from the Latin Caliga. It's a linguistic scar that shows just how much fear these "hobnailed" soldiers struck into the local population.
- "Swords into Ploughshares." Why build a bathhouse on top of a military bastion?
The Shift: During the 2nd century AD, the Roman Empire felt so secure that many military sites were converted for civilian use.
Peaceful Foundations: The bastion's thick walls served as a sturdy base for the heavy water tanks and furnaces of the thermal baths. It was a symbolic move: a place of war turned into a place of relaxation.
- Unchanging Military Logic The Romans picked this spot for the same reason Israeli soldiers dug their trenches here between 1948 and 1967.
The View: From this cliff, you can see the entire southern shore of the Lake and every approach to the mountain.
Strategic Reality: Whether you are using a ballista or a modern rifle, the military logic remains the same—whoever holds this cliff controls the valley.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
