When you approach Hippos (Susita) from the east, you immediately realise this place wasn't just built for living—it was built to flex. It starts with this massive 7-meter-wide moat carved right into the rock at the narrowest part of the "saddle" that connects the mountain to the Golan plateau. Back in the day, that moat was there to stop heavy siege engines in their tracks, leaving them sitting ducks for the defenders on the walls.
But the coolest thing about Susita is the geology-as-marketing strategy.
The Black and White Flex The city sits right where the black basalt of the Golan meets the white limestone of the Galilee valley. The architects used this to create a massive visual statement:
The Muscle (Black Basalt): Since it was right there and super tough, they used local black basalt for all the "heavy lifting"—the defensive walls, the foundations, and the regular houses.
The Style (White Limestone & Marble): Basalt is way too hard to carve into fancy shapes, and a 100% black city would have looked a bit too "gloomy" and provincial for a Roman's taste. So, they imported expensive white limestone and marble for the "pretty" stuff—the columns, the temples, and the statues.
The "Shining City" Effect This created a wild contrast. If you were looking up at Susita from across the lake in Tiberias, you'd see this dark, rugged mountain topped with a shining white crown of classical architecture. It was a total power move. It told everyone watching that this wasn't just some outpost—it was a sophisticated outpost of Greco-Roman culture sitting right on the edge of the wild frontier.
Basically, it was the ancient version of "dressing for the job you want," blending raw power with high-end civilisation.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
