This transition from the Roman Civil Basilica to the Byzantine Church is a perfect case study in what historians call "Functional Drift." It shows how a space for lawyers and traders became a space for priests and paupers.
From Roman Law to Byzantine Faith 1. The Roman Civic Hub (2nd–3rd Century AD) Originally, this wasn't a church at all. The Basilica was a massive rectangular hall used as a courthouse, a stock exchange, and a meeting place.
Imperial Luxury: The Corinthian capitals here—with their intricate acanthus-leaf carvings—are masterpieces of Roman stonecraft.
The "Stone Flex": Notice the contrast between the heavy local basalt bases and the imported white limestone or marble columns. It was designed to look expensive and authoritative.
Ornate Details: Look for the "egg-and-dart" patterns (Ionic cymatium) on the fragments of the friezes. These weren't just buildings; they were Roman status symbols.
- The Byzantine Makeover (4th–6th Century AD) When Christianity took over, the vast open spaces of the Roman Basilica were deemed too large and too "pagan."
Recycling (Spolia): The Byzantines dismantled parts of the civil hall to build their churches. You can see where they used rougher, denser basalt masonry compared to the elegant Roman work.
Personal Touches: In the "Northwest Church," we find inscriptions naming specific people, such as Bishop Megas and brothers Eusebius and Jovius.
- The "Burnt Church" and the Language Gap One of the most fascinating finds is the "Burnt Church."
The Greek Mistakes: The 6th-century mosaics here contain glaring grammatical and spelling errors in the Greek text. This tells us that by this time, Greek was becoming a "dead" language in Susita—something priests used for liturgy, but the local mosaic artists couldn't actually speak or spell correctly.
Symeonius the Jeweller: Inscriptions mention a man named Symeonius, a goldsmith who also served as a deacon. This proves your hunch: the lives of ordinary tradespeople and the church were completely intertwined in these neighbourhoods.
- "Peace to the Elders": A World First? The 2023–2024 excavation season uncovered something truly special near the Forum:
The Oldest Nursing Home? A mosaic was found with a unique blessing: "Peace to the Elders" (Irene tois presbyterois).
Ancient Charity: Archaeologists think this late 4th-century building might be one of the earliest examples of a charitable home for older people. It's decorated with peaceful images of Egyptian geese, cypress trees, and fruit—a quiet sanctuary in a busy city.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
