The name Nukieb comes from an Arabic word meaning "leader" or "elder," but it also refers to a "pass" or "gap" in the cliffs. Back in the late 1800s, it almost became a spiritual hub of the world. The founder of the Baháʼí Faith bought a huge chunk of land here and turned the dry shoreline into a massive, blooming garden. It stayed that way until the 1920s, when politics forced them out.
The 10-Meter Border Headache After WWI, Britain and France drew a line on the map that was asking for trouble. They gave the entire Sea of Galilee to the British, meaning the border was literally just 10 meters from the water on this side. Syria had no legal access to the lake, which eventually led to decades of fighting.
The "Fortress" Years By 1949, things got messy. On paper, this was a "demilitarised zone," but in reality, Syria turned Nukieb into a massive fortified bunker. For years, Syrian snipers and artillery up here would take shots at Israeli fishermen and the people living in Kibbutz Ein Gev just across the water.
Operation "Snunit" (1962) By 1962, Israel had enough of the constant shelling and launched a massive commando raid on the night of March 16th.
The Mission: Special forces (Golani and naval commandos) moved in to take out the Syrian garrison.
The Fight: It was brutal. The Syrian forces were way bigger than the intel suggested, leading to some of the toughest trench fighting in Israeli history. They took the post in just 70 minutes, but it cost the lives of seven soldiers.
The Mystery: One soldier, Yaakov Dvir, vanished during the fight. To this day, nobody knows where he is, but there's a memorial for him right here at the lookout.
Why it Matters Today The constant threat from these heights didn't really end until the Six-Day War in 1967, when Israel took the Golan. Now, instead of snipers and bunkers, we have Mitzpe Nukieb—one of the best spots to see the "turquoise bowl" of the Kinneret stretching out toward Tiberias. It's a place of silence now, dedicated to the guys who fought tokeepe it that way.
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
