Once you passed through the East Gate and stepped between those massive guard towers, the "rough" part of the trip was over. You were immediately greeted by a view that was designed to blow your mind with pure Roman luxury.
Here is the vibe of the city's "Main Street":
The Decumanus Maximus As soon as you were inside, you found yourself on the Decumanus Maximus—the city's main artery. It was a perfectly straight, stone-paved road stretching over 550 meters (about 1,800 feet) from one end of the city to the other.
A City of "Cool" Contrast Think about the contrast: outside the walls was a jagged, wild, black-rock wilderness. But inside?
Geometric Perfection: The street was lined with majestic columns topped with bright white capitals. It was a world of clean lines and right angles.
The Grid: Side streets branched off at perfect 90-degree angles, creating organised neighbourhoods. It was the Roman way of showing that human logic had conquered the "chaos" of the mountain.
The Sound of Luxury But the most impressive thing wasn't just the view—it was the sound. Right by the entrance, you would have heard the sound of running water. Remember, there is no natural water on this mountain. Yet, thanks to those 24-kilometre-long pipes, the Romans had fountains splashing right inside the gate.
For a traveller coming off a long, dusty trail, being greeted by shade, white marble, and the sound of splashing water was the ultimate "five-star" welcome. It was Susita's way of saying, "Welcome to the centre of the civilised world."
Imagine the perfect spring morning in Israel—the sun is warm but not yet "blasting" you, and the air smells like fresh wildflowers. It's the absolute best time to grab the keys and head to the eastern side of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).
First Stop: Kursi & The Views Start your day at Kursi. It's this massive Byzantine monastery ruin where the vibe is just... super chill. You can walk across ancient mosaics and literally feel the history. But don't stay too long because the drive up the mountain is even better. Make sure to pull over at Mitzpe Nukieb. On a clear day, the view is insane—you see the whole blue "bowl" of the Kinneret stretched out from Tiberias to the Golan Heights. It's one of those "stop and just stare" moments.
The Main Event: Susita (Hippos) Then, you've got the crown jewel: Susita. It's like a ghost city sitting on a hill. They call it the "Pompeii above the lake." You'll walk through the old Roman forum and see giant columns that were knocked down by an earthquake 1,200 years ago and just... stayed there. It's got this wild mix of ancient Roman vibes and old Israeli military outposts.
Trains and Hummus When you head back down, swing by the old Tzemach train station. It's been restored and feels like a movie set from the early 1900s—back when trains ran all the way from Haifa to Damascus.
Finally, once you're officially "toured out," hit up Hummus Eliyahu at the Tzemach junction. Trust me, a warm bowl of creamy hummus with olive oil, fluffy pita, and a solid cup of coffee is the only way to end a trip like this.
Pro tip: Go right now while it's spring. The Golan is bright green, and everything looks like a masterpiece.
