Places to visit
Ein Hod - artists' village
The streets of the artists' village of Ein Hod, strewn with autumn leaves, have a unique charm. Slightly worn by time, curvilinear and genuinely charming, they are shrouded in an atmosphere of kindness. Walking from the museum of Janko Dada, the founder of Dada, to the bronze sculptures of Benjamin Levi, you are greeted at every step by art in the most unexpected manifestations. This village has experienced a lot: from liveliness to decline, when houses stood empty, to its rebirth. The walls of its houses are mute witnesses of eras, cultures, the change of the Arab population by the descendants of Saladin's troops to Jewish Dada artists. The stones of these walls contain stories ranging from the times of the Crusaders, through the Arab heritage, to the Jewish restoration.
Today, sculptors, designers, musicians, architects, actors, singers, poets, jewelers, and potters live and work in Ein Hod. Many of them invite visitors to their workshops, organizing master classes and exhibitions. Ein Hod has no aspirations for high art or display of masterpieces, but there is a special atmosphere of simplicity, hospitality and pluralism, attractive in its ease and picturesqueness. Translated with Google Translate
The parking facility at Ein Hod village provides complimentary parking spaces for all visitors. Should you be visiting the artist enclave of Ein Hod, it is advisable to park your vehicle here. Entry into the village via personal vehicles is restricted solely to the resident artists, ensuring the tranquility and seclusion essential for fostering a creative and artistic environment.
The picturesque park at the entrance to Ein Hod, the artists' village, was established through the generous funding of Professor Yehiam Yemini, in honor of his parents, Isael and Rebek. Yemini played a pivotal role in the founding of the Comverse company, and his contributions have made this park one of the village's most beautiful and scenic spots.
The story of Ein Hod stretches back in time. The contemporary artists' village was built on the location of an old Arab settlement, which bore a similar name. The historic lands on Mount Carmel and in the western and lower Galilee were bestowed upon Husam aDin, also known as Abu El Hija, by Salah adin (Saladin). A native of Kurdistan, Husam aDin fought in the battles for Jerusalem and Acre as part of Saladin's army. The lineage of the village's inhabitants can be traced back to Abu el-Hijjah.
The establishment of the village is intimately linked to Sheikh Said al Kawkaban, a progenitor of the Abu al-Hijja family. Known in the region as a revered healer, Abu el Hija earned the nickname Darabin Alre for his unique healing method, which involved gently patting the painful area and reciting verses from the Koran. In 1948, amid tumultuous events, the villagers were compelled to abandon their homes, relocating to Fureidis, Haifa, and even as far as Syria and Iraq.
Agriculture was the traditional livelihood of the village's Arab population, playing a significant role in their daily life and cultural identity. This narrative paints a picture of the region's intricate and layered historical and cultural evolution.
The park in Ein Hod, along with many other areas in the village, is adorned with sculptures and installations that tell the story of its ruin and subsequent revival. Notable works include a sealed well and sculptures of musicians and dancers, symbolizing the village's past and present.
Despite the original Arab inhabitants leaving Ein Hod, one family went on to establish a new settlement known as New Ein Hod, situated to the east of the historic village. Recognized by Israeli authorities in the mid-90s, New Ein Hod is now renowned for its restaurants and stunning views. The route to this settlement winds past the cowshed of Moshav Nir Etzion.
Following the desolation of the old Ein Hod, efforts were made in 1949 to repopulate it with new immigrants, including repatriates from Algeria. These individuals, along with a group from Tunisia, founded Moshav Tzrufa. The village remained uninhabited for six years until Marcel Janko, an adviser to the Jewish National Fund at the time, discovered it. His vision for national parks and reserves saved Ein Hod from obliteration, transforming it into a commune for young artists under his guidance.
Today, Ein Hod is a vibrant community where sculptors, designers, musicians, architects, actors, singers, poets, jewelers, and potters live and create. Many open their studios to the public, offering workshops and exhibitions. While Ein Hod may not be a hub for high art or masterpieces, its distinct lifestyle, welcoming spirit, diversity, and simplicity captivate and charm all who visit.
The distinctive bronze bus stop in Ein Hod has long functioned as a symbolic representation of the village. Featuring a sculptural bench supported by leg-like structures and complemented by an elegant lantern, it exudes both character and style. This imaginative and atypical piece of urban furniture embodies the unique architectural heritage and ambiance of Ein Hod, reflecting its artistic spirit and creative community.
“Couple in a Can” is a renowned piece by artist Benjamin Levi, born in 1940 in the Kerem HaTeimanim quarter of Tel Aviv, a neighborhood predominantly inhabited by Yemenite Jews. In his large family of nine children, his father was a street vendor, carting goods for sale.
Beni's life took a romantic turn when he met Hana in Haifa in 1956, a period when the city was a hub of industrial and scientific innovation. Hana's family had fled Amsterdam just before World War II. Her father went on to become a prominent scientist at the Technion. The couple had four children, and as they grew older, Hana pursued piano lessons, where she excelled.
Today, Benjamin and Hana's family resides in Ein Hod, their home becoming a convivial gathering place for Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Besides their residence in Ein Hod, they also maintain homes in Tel Aviv and New York, embracing a life enriched by culture, family, and history.
The square in Ein Hod is named in honor of Aba Hushi, the legendary mayor of Haifa, who played a pivotal role in the development of both the city and the artists' village of Ein Hod. Throughout his mayoralty, he was instrumental in establishing a university in Haifa, inaugurating theaters, and launching the Carmelit, Haifa's underground funicular railway.
His support extended beyond city infrastructure to the arts and cultural sphere. Aba Hushi was a staunch supporter of the artists in Ein Hod, nurturing close ties with eminent figures like Janko Dada and his contemporaries, including the up-and-coming Benjamin Levi. His deep involvement and contributions to the region's cultural and artistic scene are widely recognized and celebrated, marking his legacy in Ein Hod and beyond.
This restaurant is a haven for those who appreciate fine dining, offering exceptional meat along with a fascinating history. In the latter half of the 19th century, inspired by Baron Hirsch's call, numerous Jewish families from the Pale of Settlement in the Russian Empire, including the Rochfleisch family, emigrated to Argentina. They purchased 6,000 dunams of land between Buenos Aires and La Pampas and embarked on an agricultural journey. Don Marcus engaged in cattle raising and wheat farming, while his wife Rosa managed the household and was renowned for her culinary skills. Her Eastern European cuisine soon integrated the rich flavors and spices of Latin America, making her recipes renowned.
Meals at the Rochfleisch family's hacienda, often joined by the workers, were lively with discussions, storytelling, and humor, fostering an ambiance of mutual respect and camaraderie. This very essence is captured in the Donna Rosa restaurant, where every element of the décor echoes this rich past and contributes to its unique ambiance.
The restaurant, run by the grandchildren of Rosa and Marcus, replicates the ambience of an Argentine hacienda. Its offerings include authentically prepared meat dishes, served on small grills with an assortment of Latin American spices and sauces. These are perfectly complemented by red wine, while a selection of stronger beverages is available at the bar.
Advance reservations are recommended, particularly for evenings or family gatherings. This is especially important on weekends to ensure a spot in this esteemed establishment.
The museum in the heart of the artists' village of Ein Hod stands as a key cultural landmark. It houses four exhibition halls, each offering a different artistic experience. One hall is dedicated to the enduring works of Marcel Janco, a celebrated artist and a pioneer of Dadaism, showcasing his contributions to the art world.
The gallery actively promotes the works of up-and-coming artists and hosts various unique projects, making it a dynamic space for art enthusiasts. The lower hall is specially dedicated to contemporary and avant-garde art, providing a distinctive and immersive experience for visitors.
An art workshop within the museum offers a rare glimpse into the artistic process, allowing visitors to engage directly with the creative journey. A notable feature of the museum is a fragment of the Berlin Wall displayed prominently outside, representing a symbol of freedom and the breaking down of barriers.
Marcel Janco, born in Bucharest, fled to British Palestine in 1941 to escape the fascist regime in Romania. By then, he had already established himself as a prominent artist and writer and was recognized as one of the founders of the Dada movement. The museum not only exhibits his works but also stands as a testament to his lasting impact and legacy in the world of art.
In Ein Hod, the artists' village, mailboxes transcend their ordinary function, becoming more than just receptacles for mail. The Hebrew term for mailbox, "tevat doar," carries layered meanings. "Doar" translates to mail, while "teva" signifies not only a box but also a cell, and even an ark. A notable example is Noah's Ark, known as "Tevat Noach" in Hebrew, which literally means "Noah's box" or "Noah's cell."
This linguistic nuance is cleverly mirrored in the design of the village's mailboxes. Echoing the theme of Noah's Ark, where each animal had its pair, each mailbox in Ein Hod is paired with another, creating a unique duality. This inventive concept is a testament to the village's artistic ethos, transforming even the most mundane items into expressions of art and culture.
Walking through the streets of the village of Ein Hod is a real pleasure. The streets, covered with fallen leaves, slightly dilapidated, unpredictably winding, radiate warmth and kindness. Here, at every turn, you are surrounded by art, original ideas and numerous interesting objects, each of which tells its own unique story.
The village has experienced its ups and downs: it was full of life, then fell into decay, the houses were empty, but they found life again. Every arch and corner here is a silent witness to changes in eras and cultures. Ein Hod is not only the story of the transition from the Arab settlement of the descendants of Saladin's warriors to the Jewish Dada artists. The stones from which the village's buildings are built contain even more stories.
These stones, once piled into the walls of the fortresses by the crusaders in Atlit, witnessed the departure of the last knight from the Holy Land. After their departure, the new rulers dismantled the fortress walls and the stones were used for new buildings. This is how they ended up in Ein Hod, becoming part of its unique history and architecture. Translated with Google Translate
Ein Hod is a treasure trove that extends beyond its artist studios and galleries. Among its gems is a charming bookstore filled with the inviting scent of books. It's a sanctuary for book lovers, offering a collection that includes rare editions, literature that was once forbidden, contemporary releases, and a nostalgic array of illustrated children's fairy tales – a reminder of a time before the digital age of computers and tablets.
According to Arab tradition, the village of Ein Hod was established following the Crusaders' expulsion from the Holy Land and the departure of the last knights from Atlit to Europe. The stones from the Atlit fortress were repurposed in the construction of the village, lending some buildings an essence of medieval architecture. This melding of materials and histories makes Ein Hod a unique mosaic of different eras and cultures, adding layers of intrigue and charm that captivate visitors.
The ARMA Open Theater, established in 1990 by the residents of Ein Hod, serves as an exceptional cultural venue. Its name, ARMA, is an acronym derived from the initial letters of four Hebrew words: Adama (earth), Ruach (air), Mayim (water), and Esh (fire), each representing a fundamental element of nature. The theater is envisioned by its creators as embodying the fifth element, adding a unique dimension to this conceptual framework.
Gaining prominence for hosting the celebrated annual Ein Hod Festival, the ARMA Theater has become a cornerstone of the village's cultural identity. This festival draws numerous visitors and artists, offering a rich array of performances that showcase the artistry and creative diversity emblematic of Ein Hod. The event serves as a vibrant meeting point for various art forms, further enriching the cultural fabric of this artistic community.
In a quaint nook of the past, there once stood the Sabaya restaurant, renowned for its traditional oven and exceptional breads. A timeless photograph captures the essence of an age-old tabun oven, a term used in the Levant for bread-baking ovens, akin to the Italian pizza ovens.
Today, this very spot is home to the "Feigam" restaurant, a name translating to "rue" in Hebrew. The rue plant, flourishing on the slopes of Mount Carmel, embodies the harmonious blend of local and Mediterranean culinary traditions. Visitors to Feigam are treated to an array of hummus variations, alongside classic offerings of kebabs, skewers, and exquisite fish dishes. The gastronomic experience is further enhanced by a selection of fine wines and signature cocktails based on the local arrack, making it a must-visit destination for food connoisseurs.
